who here has been surfing this week?

Caught a couple of fun ones before dark, lumpy east swell peaks. Kind of offshore wind and lots of drift. Everything outside of the water was covered in a sheet of ice from the freezing rain, even the beach was slippery. Spent the last half hour of my time in the water thinking about why there isn't reverse (warm water) upwelling in the winter. After I got out and thawed my brain in the shower I felt kind of stupid.

 

i don't actually surf.

 

hope everyone in nj gets to go out thursday morning. feathering west wind with long swell periods at head high and the tide will be pushing. it almost sounds to good to be true i can't wait

 

Just got back from my morning session. There's waves out there! Bouy was reading 6.6 ft @ 7 or 8 seconds. It ass about chest/shoulder high, I think the wind was knocking it down a bit. Winds felt really strong today, like annoyingly strong. The weather app I use, which is usually on point, was saying 15-20. It felt over 30. Still waves weren't bad. Slightly textured, steep on the peak but than would soften up a bit. Long lefts though. Problem was the drift was pretty darn strong so after every long wave it was a real workout fighting the drift to get back into position. I was feeling pretty nauseas and sluggish so after about an hour or so I stopped fighting the drift, caught a few more waves than cut the session short. Iv been out in colder conditions but today the cold started to get to me. Only a handful of guys out though and the waves were fun. Can't really complain.

PS- I absolutely HATE my new 5 mil dry lock lobster claws. Hands were cold 5 min into my session. I usually wear 7 mil flashbomb mittens and my hands sweat but they finally died after 3 years. Had to get new gloves and my local shop had no 7mil in any brand out any mittens in any brand, so went with the dry locks. Iv heard nothing but good things. I'm sure they will be good on days that arent so cold. I blame the shop, they didn't just run out of stock. They are stocking up there shop with summer gear. Whatever they had was all they are going to have till next season. It's freaking February and it's been snowing like every other day. Bunch of douche bags.

 

I have the same. Yesterday my hands were completely numb after an hour, this evening they were fine, warm even. I don't know what to make of it.

Stayed out until 6, the days are definitely getting longer.

 

Doing a great job with it Peajay, just took the initiative and follow through, thanks for keepin up with it.

 

I waited for the afternoon, for the tide and wind to change. When I left the house, the sun was out. I thought ... "damn, it feels warm today! This is gonna be a cozy session!"

I was excited to see how the recently shifted sand would handle this swell direction. I suited up and checked the beach, and a couple of spots were working well. It wasn't breaking as well as I hoped, but there were solid peelers here and there; some sets were even coming through at shoulder to head. The crowd was ... kind of ridiculous. For a weekday. In February.

So I walked down a few jetties and found a sandbar between two jetties. One man on it; two on the jetty peak to the left. Paddling out, I realized that the current wasn't half as bad as I expected, and I realized that my wetsuit leaks are worsening. The water felt cold today, and my feet were icy after just an hour.

As the tide went out, the central bar filled up, so I moved over to the jetty. Pearled it hard on the first drop. I caught a nice wave that surprised me, first by holding up, and then by reforming on the central bar. Then the swell seemed to just die for 30 minutes. As the tide drained out, the jetty came back. Four or five more people showed up, and still a few waves went unridden.

After showering I went back to the beach and grabbed a few shots. Maybe sbx?



Good luck Peajay Jr.

 

Got out this AM. It was a speed sesh. Had class at 8, got in at 630, out around 7. Drift was crazy. Drifted so far so fast I actually lost track of where I was. Decided not to fight it due to my time restraints. Caught a few good ones including one freaking freight train of a wave. It was pretty big. HH/OH. Honestly wasn't expecting that size even with the 8.9 @ 10 second bouy reading. Winds were strong, made dropping in a bit of a hassle.

My last wave... I'm sitting out there and I see a bump coming my way, start paddling, then this thing just jacked up. OH wave, I got hung up in the lip for a second. I'm thinking oh crap. But I was able to get the nose down and made the drop without getting tossed. Thing walled up than closed out. I really enjoyed it though. Guess it was the excitement of being able to get down the face when I thought for sure I was going to take a beating.

Hope everything went well for your son today peajay

 

+1 and good stuff BassMon, 30 minutes is better than no minutes in the water

 

Peajay, glad to hear everything went well. When my son was very, very little he had an issue that required an MRI. We were lucky that we were able to get it done without anesthesia, it's such a scary thing when they are small.

The wind turned onshore here this afternoon, which was kind of a bummer. Took the mat out and walked down to a jetty that I saw doing something yesterday, and managed to have some fun. Super shallow right in front of the rocks, with the rip running right into the waves putting steps in the face, then peeling off into an inside sandbar. I think if the wind had been better it would have been something. Got worked on my last one just as the sun was setting.

 

Got a few sick onescsouth of delray today it was pretty fun,some cool people around here. Biggest waves are probably saw today were around 5 foot when kicked on and ****ed it up. if it really gets double overhead tomorrow **** my pants. I can't wait.

 

Same thing happened to me today..but happened on my first wave. Waves coming in would roll in nice and slow and then wammo, they would grow in size 2-3 times at the last second. A lot of closeouts but some good rides. I even got complimentary ride over the falls on a well-overhead wave because I misjudged the wave I was stroking over. I just needed one more paddle but I was watching someone else drop in (bad idea) and I got to do some pretty fancy paddling while free-falling backwards in the lip...pretty weird feeling. This has been a good February so far though.

 

If you are in Delray tomorrow, go to Atlantic Dunes park just north of Litton, walk north almost half a mile to the condo - that is where the rip is - by the time you get outside you should be still a bit north of the guard tower at the park where it goes tubular and peels for a good bit. Good luck! South Delray (just north of Atlantic Dunes) will be Little Brazil. I'm headed to ....????

 

Nice to hear that P-Jr. is well.

I arrived late to the party today also. On the way over, the bay was slick, and I got excited thinking it would be glassy. Instead it was onshore. A little choppy and confused. Botched another drop, got clipped from behind on a closeout, and took one nice reeling one to the beach.

The sunset was even more impressive than yesterday. Most of the snow in the area has melted; there are now many frozen and diluted turds to avoid.

 

I'm the same way, so I can relate. It's my place to meditate and all that good stuff. I figure sh*t out when I'm out there. Life things. Some days I just go out in attack mode and try to destroy the waves and others, I take my time, sit and chill, pick a few off and spend time just taking it in. Depends on my state of mind.

 

This morning was waaay diffrent than originally forecasted. Looked good all week, light offshores. Winds forecast made a 360. 15-20 sideshore/onshore. Not as big as the past two days, but still chest high. I went anyway. It was rough out there, but I enjoy surfing in conditions like that every once in awhile. Hard to tell what's a wave and what's just chop. A lot of randomness with the waves, ya know. Keeps you on point in my opinion. Waves were sectiony but it was manageable, especially on the shoulder. Was able to snag a few good ones. Like 2. Got slammed a bit more. Got to say, really happy I squeezed that 30 min session in yesterday considering how today turned out. Still had fun and am happy I went though.

 

Dudes, it's 6-8ft+ and clean at my favorite spot right now, and i'm stuck at work!!!! AAAAHHHH, i'll get on it Saturday morning, but AHHHH!!!