Chronic Fear of "bigger" waves

man up or stop being a *****

 

Get down the wave first then across it.

 

Just go no matter what. Think of John John tearing up Huge pipe with that (who gives a sh!t style). I always have alittle fear until my first pounding then it totaly goes away. Dont let fear stop you from having a great time...

 

Sometimes people are afraid of anxiety, and they will do anything to avoid feeling anxiety. Anxiety is painful. Maybe you're avoiding anxiety. Like you're saying to yourself, "Uh oh, that's a big wave, I just know I am going to feel anxious" and then you avoid the wave to avoid the anxiety.

 

when u "think" something bads going to happen,it will.think positive,when u plant the fear in ur head it will take over.lol I just saw a brain games episode about this whole "thinking" bad thing.some people just like small waves.I never seen gorkin catch a pipe bomb,but he chills with the guys who do

 

I thought overhead surf if what we all lived for? The best feeling in the world is charging down a wave that is taller than yourself…its really not a big deal.

You are way too inside your own head here on this one. Fear of overhead east coast waves…cmon bro. Would you ever get laid with that attitude?

 

I've surfed some fairly decent size in all my years, I think being a little nervous helps you make better split second decisions while surfing, it's human nature. But if your so nervous that your making bad decisions, maybe you should stick to the smaller fun stuff, there is nothing wrong with that, better safe than sorry. Just my 2 cents.

 

i feel the same way man .. nothing bothers me about the paddle out or anything i can take some big surf on the head but i only really get weird-ed out in 8 to 12ft closeouts...if its 8 to 12 an pealing its all good. but most of the time its closeouts at that size...so really you just have to charge and take a beating if its like that...which i need to do more...

 

What's up, Nick, haven't seen ya in a bit. Maybe it's more a fear of the hold down or going over the falls? More exposure to larger surf always helps, too.

 

Yeah I thunk here on the east coast- the close outs are a contributing factor. It's typical that when it gets big- it results in closeouts unless your at like one of the five breaks that can handle a bigger swell. So maybe it's the closeouts factor?

 

catching Big waves don't bother me as much as rip currents that pull you down and waves that detonate so hard you cant really duck dive em. I've got issues with my dome so if I hit my head it could be last call for me. So I get anxious when its gnarly. But as long as there's not a dangerous rip I try and do like brad and just go. If you're surfing with buds that know your situation makes it easier. Your board floats and you float, so keep that in mind. And don't fight when you get worked...unless there's a rip.

 

All I know is I sh!t my pants when a well overhead wave breaks right in front of me when paddling out...especially when its relatively shallow

 

Little waves, big waves, surfing is surfing, just put on your surfing pants and surf.

 

if you learn about low pressure zones it'll give you some peace of mind for the paddle out at least

 

I've battled with anxiety my whole life, too. It really sucks, and there's no rational explanation. I broke my leg surfing a couple years ago and for several months after recovery, I would hesitate right before dropping in & get chucked over the falls when it got overhead. It helped me to just watch everyone else having fun. When I start feeling myself get anxious, I take a few deep breaths, holding them in for a few seconds. Totally changes my mindset.

What I love most about this sport is that it is only what you want to get out of it: supping, sponging, towing in at jaws or paddling in to mavs. It's your own trip, who cares if you only go out if it's chest high or less? **** what anyone else thinks. But if it really bugs you, consider getting hypnotized to trick your subconscious into making whatever it is that triggers that fight or flight response into something that calms you. Worth a try! Good luck!