I don't surf for you, bro.

+1,000,000. Great post.

 

I concur, never did and never will. Surfing is a personal thing. Maybe impressing himself or his friends is important to him. GOOD FOR US if we found something we enjoy doing.

 

There is no such thing as a "famed Delaware beachbreak".

 

The thing about being "Good" is doing it all well. I surf for the rad sensations I feel will doin the manuvers or getting the barrel ride. I let the wave predict what I do on it from section to section while putting 100% into every section. That kid was forcing the air and that is lame, he was prob blowing good section for a dif manuver. Theres a reason why he wasnt sticking the airs (not the right section) he was attemping.

 

Nice post

 

IDK bout youse guys, but I don't pre-plan anything, I just catch the wave and go on my instincts and I try to be creative and spontaneous, but never really think too far ahead and script my waves.

 

So the kid was frustrated and pissed off that he didn't land some air attempts. How do you know he wasn't trying them because they mattered to him. I find air attempts fun and landing a rare little "wheelie" air is even better. How could you tell he was attempting airs for someone other than himself?

 

Exactly my point brutha!

 

I definitely go into some sessions with a goal to just try and do some particular thing pretty much at the expense of everything else. Best example - I get frustrated because I feel like I'm usually out on the shoulder and not hanging back to get barreled, because I never have the instinct to check turn or tail stall.

A couple of times this winter when the waves were smallish and hollow, I made a commitment to drop in, set a line and then tail stall like crazy to slow down and get covered up. The couple of times that it worked out were SO satisfying, because I forced myself to have the presence of mind to drop into a wave and execute something pre-planned. I was grinning ear to ear and nobody was even around to share it with!

But yeah...99% of the time I drop in and just react to what comes my way on the wave.

 

Nothing wrong with it. I use to do that when I skated but I remember being so frustrated sometimes when I struggled landing something and not really enjoying myself. Of course when I finally perfected something it was pretty gratifying. I try to enjoy myself every session in the water, so not putting any pressure on myself is more satisfying to me.

I mean, let's be honest, I won't be competing in any competitions or anything. I do it for the love of it, not to compete with anybody, not even myself. But I can see how it could benefit you to focus on repetition on one thing. As long as you're having fun even in failure I guess it's all good.

 

Hear Hear Nick M!

 

yea I agree with some of you guys- even rad (cause he's rad)

Its all about riding the wave.... every wave is different. you just gotta learn to harness the waves energy and maneuver with the wave.

 

You don't say

 

I was tryin!!! haahahahahaa!!!

 

Yeah man! When I get a good wave or I'm just surfing good, in my eyes, and no one is around to see it....makes it that much better for me. I don't know, something about knowing it I'd just for me makes it feel that much better.

As far as pre planned maneuvers, not me either. It's all instinct. Iv actually been thinking lately that I should try to attempt a certain maneuver or whatever. I'll have it in my head than the second I hit the water instincts just take over and I forget to try whatever I wanted to try.

 

K I don't surf for you neither.

The kid who couldn't land the air reverse doesn't surf for you. He surfs for him or else he wouldn't be out there.

BTW just about everyone who has progressed enough to air can ride the face.



I guess you and I are just cut from different cloth because to me the only thing better than doing something is doing it better.

Keep telling yourself things are "good enough" and you will soon be the jealous surfer posting on a message board to make yourself feel better about your lack of ability................................just get out and surf and keep trying do things....and if you fail and want to curse.....curse your ****ing brains out. Just don't do it to be cool in front of people. Curse for you.

 

drops the mic and walks off the stage

 

I surf for chicks. Chicks dig surfers.
Actually, I cannot say that anymore, as I have been married for long time.
But were I young and single....that would have been my answer.
Everything else would be secondary.......

 

Agree 100% - if you're not trying new things, you're not progressing. If you're not progressing, you're getting further and further from those breakthrough moments that hooked you on surfing in the first place, and you're eventually going to get bored, bitter or both.