it was so fn good today

Yes it was, YES!, it was

 

Kinda sucked here... Yesterday afternoon was OK, though. Was hoping to get a quick session in late today, but the wind wasn't right, swell was kinda small... just wasn't feeling it.

 

Was pretty fun right around 830a...jumped in at 7ish and moved spots early as it was a bit weak and wind was not helping things...wind lightened up and it was pretty fun for a while on the fish...better Han working...

 

it was shockingly good. especially after how miniscule it was at the end of friday. Im thinking there could be something left over sunday morning...

 

yo si were you down in obx today? i was down there all day between buxton and frisco. all i have to say is barrels and warmer water. its been a long time since ive been this surfed out. i surfed for at least 8 hours total today. f'in STOKED!!!

 

not quite that; still good surf on sat. howling offshores, a chilly wait for a set. i surfed with the same
guy i've been surfing with since 1974 (!!).

 

We had a good day up here too! It was my first time back in the water since October eek & my first real cold water surf. Picked up a 5/4, 5mil booties & 5 mil gloves (I think) and I have to say I was warm but soo AWFUL! Haha.

Props to all you cold water rippers! Surfing with all that extra weight is seriously tough. Felt great to be back though - hoping for more good waves before summer starts!

 

Man I didn't know you've been out of the water so long. Welcome back Sistah!

 

I am so jealous...its been so flat here!

 

I'm in northern Palm Beach County, Fl. It's inconsistent, but every dog has his day. Story later.

 

oh i thought you said you were coming up to the banks. maybe that was somebody else. my bad

 

Dude that board looks sick! How's it ride?

 

the board looks cool, the waves look better!!!

 

barrels upon barrels in newport beach, CA this am

 

Thanks Betty! I've been frozen under 4 feet of snow up here in NE but couldn't wait any longer now that the sunshine is back!

 

The cams on Saturday were showing flatness early, even though the vaunted surf predictin site was calling for a building swell. A rainy, hot Friday due to the impending "cold" front was followed up with a blast of fresh arctic air, bringing the temps down into the mid 50s Saturday am. No ground swell was forecast, just a "bounce" swell. This is when a blast of NW wind hits the Gulfstream Current, or the Bahama Banks, and ricochets down to south Florida. So the buoys up in Canaveral can't tell how it plays out, and its a local phenomena. Jupiter can be sideshore and wonky, Delray may be head high. Sometimes it misses us and Miami get it, but that is just voodoo. Usually it hits my local spot, and it did yesterday.

So that is the meteorology. I knew it would get good, and I hate getting friends involved because they screw things up. So when the cameras started showing at aboot 1 pm I took my daughters single fin longboard and a fish with me. It looked about waist to chest but peeling. They finally got the cam fixed, it was waxed since Sandy.

Checking out the surf, it was peeling. It looked about solid waist to chest high,and long perfectly groomed lines. A cabana service guy, just a kid, who I surf with was walking up, and I said I was torn between a longboard and my fish. He is from Costa Rica. He said longboarding on those type of waves gives you style you can't get from shortboarding. That clinched it, and I took out the log.

No one was out, but my buddy Dougie, who had a Hypto Cryto. He was shredding it like pecan pie, and I wondered if I should have chosen my fish. I walked up the beach a half mile so I could drift into the best spots fully warmed up. Just before i paddled out, some pasty white guy in a lounge chair motioned for me to come up and talk to him. I put my board down, and asked him "what's up?" He was a kid with tats, and was fat and buzzed. he asked me if I could catch waves that small. I said my board could catch anything. I asked him if he surfed. He said no, he was from Wisconsin. I said they had waves in Shaboygin, last I heard. He said that, yes, the waves were on a lake and they did break, but they were real choppy. I said watch.

After paddling out I caught a waist high peeler and was 100 yards down the beach from him when I got back out, and caught another 2 waist high lines before driting into the spot. My buddy Dougie was still the only oe out, and he was having a bit of trouble catching the sets on his shortboard, and then the tide started to fill in.

A set came in about shoulder high, and I got a long one, then paddled back to where Dougie was sitting, then I paddled past him, then a nice set popped up, with a hard angle, so I had to paddle parallel to the beach to make sure I was slotted, and he yelled Go! And I went, and it opened up and after making the first section it got soft so I could cutback and then it got fast again, and it went on like that a few times, then I got some tip time, then got back bit so I could bail in the shore pound. It was a 200 yard ride. Longest of the season.

Walking back up the beach, a teenage girl with her parents said, "that was awesome", as they walked past. I got another one about two thirds as long, and a couple guys I surf with made it out, one is an ex pro, and he was all like wow that was a long ride, then I saw him get a three second barrellllll. Then it got bigger, like head high on sets, still peeling, and after getting da goods for two hours, I went to switch out to my shortboard, but my wife had other plans, so I left. Happy I took the longboard out and styled. Kind of frothing . Kind of bummed that I didn't shortboard after. Surfing is wrong. No matter how much you get, you still want more.

 

sick story si! i love hearing stories like that.

i almost went home early around 330 after getting barreled a ton out at frisco. then something told me to go check the lighthouse again and it was butter glass with head high+ pluss barrels. only me and 4 other guys out. cash barris, joey crum, and this other guy named dallas were getting some crazy pits. they even hooted me into a couple. it was so much better than the morning. stoked to the bone after saturday

 

I paddled up to my friend who got barrelled, the ex pro, he is now an orthodontist, and a real straight laced guy, and I yelled "Duuuuude! You got sooooo pitted!!!" He just looked at me like I had three heads, but I knew that would happen... he is such a geek. I just laughed.