As waterbaby mentions below (and you question above), a board does float better when in the power of a wave. The tumbling water causes lift, a real vertical force on the board that decreases the board's "static" displacement. So it's easier to stand on a surfboard when it's moving in a wave, than just stationary - this is why we sometimes fall off of our boards when a wave reforms and peters out. We often fall back a little and lose our balance, as the board loses lift. But a 6'4" shortboard or longboard should be able to hold a 65 lb. child. They can hold a pro surfer waiting to catch a wave - they only sink a few inches into the water. Can you try another board about that size and carefully observe the depth of the water - how much does she really sink? Basically, a 200 lb. surfer can surf a 6'4" board, although most 200 lb. surfers need about 2 1/2" - 2 5/8" of thickness to float easily. I'm not trying to insult the small number of 200 lb. surfers who can surf a 2 1/4" or 2 3/8" board - there are some very good surfers who just harness all the power of the wave. I'm speaking more of myself. I like about 2 1/2 - 2 5/8" inches under me, and I weigh 200 - 210 lbs. But my shortest board is a 6'6" shortboard. It's enough float but not easy for me to surf as it's barely 2 1/2" thick. But it IS enough float to sit on out in the lineup - it's not uncomfortable. Hopefully, the board you show in the picture (which has some brown spots) isn't waterlogged - it will definitely sink more in that case.
Yep. It wasn't that long ago that I was in Frost's boat. You just have to go all the time (at LEAST 2x a week, preferably 4x). The conditions aren't that important. Just go paddle around, get worked. Paddle for waves and get worked. Reading up online and doing stuff on land can help but nothing like water time. It's trial and error.
yea i agree i mainly wanted to make sure i COULD pop up correctly on land and get a good technique for doing it we have many small days here so plenty of opportunities..what i do now is take both surf and body board,,when i first get out there being fresh i practice and afterwards i bodyboard for fun..
Popping up on a wave is actually easier (but also totally different). Because you have momentum and many times it's more like moving your board under your feet as you fall, rather than popping up on a flat, non moving surface.
I'm guessing that old Rip Curl board was made from Clark foam. Clark foam was already much less buoyant than anything on the market today...factor in what looks like significant waterlog and you've got a relative anchor. I don't know why people insist on holding on to these things. Only old longboards are worth renovating and riding (even that's a matter of opinion)...the rest are wall-hangers, at best.
Or trying to sell them for $200 on Craiglist as "vintage, great beginner board, practically brand new, water tight, just a couple fixed dings".
Frost, I can understand your frustration trying to learn at IOP or anywhere in charleston. I surf folly but it is basically the same thing. It is actually not too bad for kids to learn on... with the right board. Did you ever play baseball? I compare surfing crappy little waves to hitting off a tee or soft toss. Paddle, pop up and do it all over again. Dry land training is good but wet is best.
yea most days are really custom made for sup and kyaks but anyway we do have some good days here and there,,and sometimes out of the blue,,sat morn. incoming tide was really not bad neither was yesterday mid afternoon.only on incoming tide more than likely....nothing to write home about but a few decent ones here and there
Popping up in the water is a different animal than on land. I have a fantastic pop up on land, but still lousy pop up (if you can call it that, it's more like a drag up) on water. I think you're better off just getting out there and surfing, even if your pop up stinks. At least you're practicing and learning other things at the same time How lucky for you that your daughter wants to surf get her a cute outfit for surfing, along with a cute board, and she will be sold on the sport. Trust me on that.
heck yeah...i surf the slop a) cause i'm desperate to get in the water, b) because i think that'll make me better in good, more stable waves, even just wave selection in the crap i think might enhance your ability in the better stuff and 3) no one is out in the slop, don't have to fight for waves
