I've been reading alot of posts dissing windchop lately. WTF? Are all youze guys sponsored pros or Made Men or Couger Laid Men? And EMass...I don't blame you for quitting the East Coast on us...lots of my brethren have done so...but they've gone to warm water locales since that's how we were raised. For the rest of us, here are some random thoughts on how to take lemons and make lemonade. It makes you surf better in good waves. Anyone that can surf can surf good chest high glass. You learn how to read waves and position yourself, and duckdive and do all the little things like takeoff technique and angles in foamy drops on windchop days. A good ride is very rewarding, after taking blows to the head and paddling your a$$ off, and waiting for the right one, and every once in while, the surf stands up, you turn and burn. It helps if you know a few protected areas and get your mental crowd techniques in order. If 50 people are on 3 peaks in a protected jetty/cove break, half are drifting the inside and happy to be out and the little groms love catching the knee to waist(chest high to them) on the inside. The other half make it look crowded on the good peaks, but windchop means endless waves with little lulls so everyone gets their share and usually plays nice. Let the first one go, the second one will be there and usually sucks up more so it is steeper. Or you can set up a drift with some buds and catch random peaks on random sandbars without a soul around except those of your choosing. I had a total blast this weekend doing both types of wind chop/swell surfing and am happy I live here. Feel free to add more thoughts.
Can't beat the power of a groundswell... We live with windchop but we dream and wait for groundswells
Windchop is an entirely different kind of surfing, it's like comparing the NFL to arena football. In the NFL you have incredibly fast, clean, awesome touchdowns but not too many. Still they make the highlights. In arena football, nobody cares about arena football, so anything that happens goes totally unnoticed, even if there were 200 touchdowns. Same goes for windswell days, you pick out a million waves and get whatever you want, yet it all blends together into one daze of a session that ends up in sub-par satisfaction. Groundswells are where it's at... Everythings clean and your mind can discern one wave from another...Giving each wave it's own identity. That's why groundswells on the east coast are the best, they're distinguishable.
Um, Nope, put a kid in clean 2-3' offshores for a month and a kid in dumpy onshore garbage for a month. I bet Obama's left nut, the 1st kid is going to come away with more skills. Pressure doesn't always make diamonds sometimes just hard dehydrated turds.
I don't think anyone would argue this or that we all prefer the clean ground swell days. I think the OP's point is that there is something to be gained by "getting wet" on those days when conditions are sub-par.
I think if you live somewhere where conditions are good often enough that you don't HAVE to surf sloppy conditions if you want to surf all the time, I could see how that could hinder progress if you only surf good waves all the time. On the other hand, surfing bad closeout/dumpy waves all the time, you just don't get enough time up on a wave to really progress that fast. I think surfing all types of waves is important.
I did not mean I prefer windchoppe to clean barrells. But there is lots of fun to be had on those blown out days. And the end sections that close out lend to great last try maneuvres.
Yea. Debating on whether to paddle out today. But it's PRETTTTTY bad, and only gonna get worse. And tomorrow will be better (that's what I always tell myself).
You gotta put it into a context... Is it August or February? Is it thigh high or chest high? Is it 25mph onshore or 5mph onshore? Have you been surfing for the past 3 days, or not surfed for three weeks? It's all relative... Don't hate the choppe.
True. Also, don't forget, how bad is the drift and the paddle out? Not gonna lie, at times I've thought "WTF am I even doing out here" before I even made it outside. And rarely have I been rewarded for the effort.
One other thing....there is quite a bit of difference between 10 mph of sideshore vs. 10 mph of onshore coming from roughly the same direction as the swell...the latter can actually have some reasonably clean faces on the set waves. for me 10 mph of sideshore (especially if your surfing into the wind - i.e. rights into a north wind) is a pass 99% of the time.
Sideshore is the worst. No doubt. Side-offshore can open up some tubes, but straight sideshore, or side-onshore is junk.