Hi Fellow surfers, Here in Morocco where we are located, we are about to finish the season, luckily, the last 3 days we have been blessed by some late season leftovers, where most of the point breaks worked better than they did during the whole year. Few broken boards showed how powerful this swell was, that came right with the spring tides here, which made the points a bit extra hollow on the low tide. Oh year!!! Keep on surfing !!!!
Missed that swell.... Looks like Nada surf in our area this weekend but Ima gonna look for some peaks, even if they are ant hills...
A certain spot was the refuge from those intense NE/ENE winds gusting 25kts+, one with a certain jetty on the north end of the island that prevented the longshore drift from messing with it. Wrightsville Beach was a washingmachine, but thise spot was holding. Some nice 8-9ft faces coming in that Saturday on the sets, most 6-7 ft range. Really fun, big barrels. A motherf****r to paddle pack out. Only saw the more experienced surfers out that day plus a few notable local supergroms. Some really nice barrels came through but the pounding was a whomping for sure.
Been getting acquainted with a used, 9 ft performance longboard I picked up a little over a week ago. Made by Bill Frierson, a longtime VB shaper. Found it posted on Craigslist. Water got into upper 60s for the first part of last week. Switched to my shorty. Temps dropped back to low 60s by end of week.
Dose Ex - glad you're stoked. Sounds like you're on the same LB I am. Couple sessions into it but have to stop riding it like a SB.
Yesterday it was nearly flat, but that doesn't deter my posse. There were 9 of us out there just afternsunrise and we owned the beach for an hour, not anyone else there. Then two groms showed up, then the masses steadily arrived. The water was 82 degrees, warm sunny day. It was so small, you just walked out, waited for the "wave" and then hopped on the board for the glide. Occasionally a thigh high came through. The camaraderie was excellent even if the waves were meh. Getting ready for today I see the buoy reads 3.6' so it will be a different scene out there for us. Maybe the winter boys will show up too.
Got in just after Sunrise today and what a gorgeous sunrise it was with lavenders and pinks and clouds etched in gold, right after a very brief downpour, only 3 guys in the water for a short while. Wind was ENE 15 mph, waves were waist high and very short intervals. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't find a way out to the lineup, although one of my crew found a rip. But the reformed waves were still lots of fun. There was a drone out there mid morning. What the heck? It was buzzing me and my crew, or so it seemed. If it was lower down, I would've swatted it. I really needed a water cannon. Dont know who owned it. Nor sure why, but it felt like an invasion of privacy. I better get used to it, it's the wave of the future. Had FLSURFDOG been out there, I just know he would've smacked it out of the sky
The waves today were really fun! The forecast throughout the weekend into Monday looks promising too with tomorrow probably being the biggest but offshores Sunday morning. The water temp is 78 degrees, the circus left last weekend and I get to break in a new board.....this summer thing ain't to bad.
Not a bad little SE swell for the mid-Atlantic this past weekend. Not a weak summer time swell and not a strong spring type swell...somewhere in between. I'll take it....logged about 5 hours this weekend on the 5'11" and got some good ones. Hope ya'll did the same!
surfed yesterday in Northern MoCo NJ. It was COLD COLD COLD in the water. What the heck is going on up in this muggerfugger? Ridiculous cold for this time of year. Some fun little waves though...Kinda like mixed swell when you found the right spot blocking all the south wind.
them upwelling long south winds Veruca a long steady north does the same thing dawg between the winds, dodging beach badge checkers and the pasty kids drenched in zinc oxide I was totally over it this weekend
Got some this weekend. 3 hour longboard session with some friends in AC. Don't like resorting to the LB but it was fun. Lonnnngggg rides. Until we meet again Dr. Atlantic.