No kidding. I used to just go and not pay any attention to the forecasts. Sometimes I was the only one out there trying to catch the wind chop. It's kind of embarrassing now that I think about
I don't read bouys. I read books. Bouys tell you next to nothing. They are too far out in the ocean to be accurate for a surf spot. Best forecast is with your eyes.
After typing that I realized how heavily I rely on the cams. I have a good enough understanding of what works where around here that I try to figure out where to go to dodge the crowds. For the most part, beach break is beach break is beach break.
Dudette, keep it simple. When you try and predict everything and analyze everything you just make yourself nuts. There was a time when I would try and add-up current sandbar conditions (Ha, as if), tides, swell and other factors trying to pinpoint THE SPOT for a particular swell. It never works. Just go and whatever it is...it is. Check a few spots. It was actually wonderful when I didn't know anything. Like, I didn't even know how swell was generated really. I just went to the beach and surfed. And hey, surfing anything and everything only helps you in the long run. Besides, surfing one foot chop is better than climbing rocks.
Hi Towelie, I saw that episode when the boys from South Park did an intervention with you. You were huffing keyboard cleaner really hard for a while and got all fried-out. You checked into rehab and it looked like things were going OK at the end of the episode. How is sobriety treating you? How is your little guy/girl Washcloth doing? They grow-up fast, huh? Anyways, I hope you're staying off the pipe buddy. Regards, Salt
Bouys tell you next to nothing. WRONG Best forecast is with your eyes. RIGHT Come on Barry. Just like pouring through earnings data for a stock trade....the buoys offer great intel on your next trade (sesh).
My thoughts/experience: Concerning current, wind and swell direction are most important. Spot type factors in heavily as always. Swell direction: If the swell is in a sideshore direction (i.e. a S swell at an E facing beach), you can count on some current. Wind: If the wind is blasting sideshore for a while, you can count on some current. Period: Alone it doesn't affect current much. But it does tell you something about the swell generating event; if the period is long, and the swell is in a sideshore direction, the drift will be stronger. If the swell generating event comes from afar the drift will be weak, aside from local winds. Tide: Tide can have a huge impact on current. This is obvious at any inlet based surf spot. Type of spot: I don't surf much besides open beachbreak & jetties, but I can tell you that at a lot of open beach spots (which I'm guessing Julia's spot is) the channel between the shore and the outside bars can have a strong sweeping current, depending particularly on the tide. Either way- unless your alone and out of shape, surf in spite of the current. I usually surf best after big sweepy closeout days ... helps me tune in for the cleanup days. Bonus Tip: If you can't out-paddle the current, bring a cinder block, rope, a swimmie, and a caribiner out to the lineup. Paddle to the peak, drop that thing like an anchor, and attach your leash with the caribiner. No more fighting the current! When a nice wave comes, untether, and take that sucker. Surf to the beach and repeat. Insta-local status granted.
^^ that's some Brooklyn sh1t lol Slash u been out lately? If I start seeing ropes with name tags in the line up, I'm blaming you and assuming everyone got the idea here lol If you see on saying " towelie " - feel free to carabiner to it
Yeah, but not enough ... I had a big block of work and then entertained some family in town, so I haven't been surfing much, aside from the occasional wonky session where everything won't quite line up. The bars are a bit weird and the crowd is increasing of course. Got out Monday and toasted my ankle in the shorebreak, subsequently face-planting into the sand ... second time I had to hop out of the water and the first time I had to crawl, haha. X-Rays seem negative but I have to wait to hear from the Doc tomorrow... Maybe that was SBX that saw me crawling like a b*tch. I will tell you this Towelie, now is the time. It seems like **** windchop but it will look really good in a month when it goes flat.... Onshore or not, get on it, you've got the right equipment for these waves. I'm always on the lookout for your NS log but haven't seen it yet.
Dude that's rough! hopefully the docs will be incompetent enough to send you back out even if you're missing parts. What? You haven't spotted my failures yet? That's crazy talk, I'll try to flap my hands harder and yell at every incoming 2 fter. Was getting my face burnt all Sunday for nothing! gonna try to jam something in tomorrow before office hours. Hey this might cheer you up, got this sweet suite for summer. Next best thing to surfing naked... Feel better man!
Your only considering one variable of the buoy. The answer is quite simple. It has to do with wind direction, wave direction, period AND swell height. But not just swell height. Everyone wants to make this complicated and intricate. It's not. anyone who says the buoy isn't a good indicator..,Doesn't know therobuoy. I can check the cam a few times but since it takes a still frame, what if it refreshes ten times and each time is in between sets??? If I know the buoy and what variable call for a good swell I'm always golden.
And of course I post the exact same post as someone else. Slash dogs on point (and yes I forgot tide, which is obviously crucial)
Ok - extremely helpful. I never understood the "side shore chop" comments, is it good or bad to have side shore chop. But I'm slowly getting it. Kind of like learning a new language. Thanks again. wow - swell info is helpful.!!!
Naw. Don't ever worry about what the p-nut gallery on the beach thinks. Paddle out when ever the urge hits ya. I've had some fun sessions when everybody was too cool to paddle out. If nothing alse it keeps you in shape.
