This is the truth, really great week for June. I feel like the water temperature's been stuck for weeks now.
Sunday evening sunset sesh. Onshore wind out of the south east caused a bit of side shore current and wee bit-o-lumpiness. Had to work to stay in position. Once enough of high tide drained out, surfed from 6ish to 8:30pm, just me and a bud, on random peaks, as the wind had us drifting around. Buoy was reading 3'@12s E, which generated some nice rides and some occasional shoulder high sets. No glass, but still super fun. Starting to peel outside as tide drained. Other spots were already working. About 20 minutes later it was game on at most spots.
Sort of .. 9' High Performance surf SUP. As the tide drained out even more, there were short borders up the beach on a different break. I was on a different peak than that picture. That was the only picture I took from the observation area when I first arrived and I could tell that things were starting work (It wasn't a particularly good set wave). By the time I donned my wetsuite, and got limbered up, it got juicer.
Whoo, it was good today! OH++ hurricane swell. Glassed off right at 10 and stayed clean until 1230. Lots of dolphins crusing the lineup. Dropped some bombers and got some inside barrels. SW swell picking up tomorrow, we'll see what happens. Could be closed out, or could be another epic day if the hurricane push continues.
Not usually... especially since at the moment Mary Lee, Katherine, and Genie are down south getting schooled on the Carolina cutbacks. I have been way out there and the swell has picked up, or conditions have gone haywire, and the inside looks like a nasty, gnarly soup, and I have thought to myself, "Making it back in is going to be a trick." As providence would have it, I did. But in general I don't want to be out there alone in case something happens. By the way, Seldom, those outer bars are part of the guided tour I plan to give you at some point.
I look foward to that for sure cdogge. I might try to SUP those with you and save the boog for the shorey.
Big again yesterday, with good winds all day. Broke a fin on the last wave, which was a solid OH++ bomber. Now I'm down to my spares, which suck. Anybody got single size L (11-12) Kicks fin they wanna sell cheap?
Saw some people found some nuggetz yesterday morning out there Jerz Waves turned back on in some select places in the evening..had a nice sesh with some super stoked groms Bump of Speed you DK mostly..Dkerz rock kickz Hey invest $40 in some ERS4 dawg
last night was unexpected fun in Delaware. I surfed a spot I hadn't been to in at least a year or more and caught a little grinding barrel riding prone on a 4'10" surfboard that probably threw out going down the line for about 40 feet on a waist high wave. The view from that barrel prone, it was like getting a headhigh barrel standup.
Nice Mitchell! Kinda the same up here little waist or little over peelers..nothing special but better then nothing Hey I see another forum member has been scoring some nice shoreys down in Bethany even with bad winds Personally I'm ready for some longer period swell that really packs a punch...3-5ft at 11s or 12s E or ENE preferably
Some. I like 'em cuz they float, and give power without being heavy like vipers. Like an idiot, I put a tether on them, and when they got blasted, the tether ripped right through the rubber. Stupid speedbump; kicks are for tricks. Or something. I'll check ebay and craigs, but it's hard to find anybody who can be arsed to sell one fin.
Today was so much fun! Waist - Chest+ glassy little medium period ground swell, light offshores groomed the waves nicely. Left and rights, long rides with lots of room to work. Perfect day in June...
4 straight days of what we in the gulf call a ground swell(3-6 ft@8-9 sec). I know you east coasters don't consider that ground swell but over here it's as close as we get. I'm still riding prone because of my leg injury but I am surfed out. I got so many waves in the last four days that my rash has a rash. The swell combined with recent dredging/ re nourishment created a small slab like wave that offered some barrels and plenty of beatings. Time for some grilled pork chops, cold beers, and some fine mota. All is right in the world. I am content. For now.
waist-chest/med period here, but the wind was onshore early. Essentially slop, but still found a few long ones. Got to try my new boards. The mutant is ultra fast and skatey, plus, pretty stocked I got it to go straight vert with a quad setup. Rode the mod 80s today in a little cleaner surf: super pivoty tail, blah, blah...I'll post review threads when I get a bunch more time on them.