Lip. Barrel.

absolutely.

trying to step up my game with going over the sections at the lip (i've pulled a few floaters, but i think i've kinda neglected t, instead of cutting down around...summer's not exactly the steepest or easiest time to practice this, but you/anyone got any tips

 

hit the section right before it breaks,kinda like when u take off at the peak,wave starts cresting,u cant throw a hack when the wave flattens when it goes over a flat bottom of the sand.u need a wall.

tubes are the bees kneez.but I do like a nice long wall,but we don't get those in my neck of the woods.a wave like j bay 10 miles north of Belmar would be greaaaaaaaaaaat

 

Does not happen often but coming out of a Barrel with all that speed, fade down the face a bit and with all the juiced up momentum get that last hack off the lip!

Yess SS that is magical! I am leaving working with that on my mind....thanks!

 

This

 

A fins free smack the lip feels awesome. Power and finesse all in one hack. With a bonus of a flying re-entry. If that gets you into the inside barrell, bliss ensues and the stoke lasts for long long time.

 

/\ So fun

 

thanks guys, and thanks SS...great follow up, and way more constructive than my post - just had to vent a little on the summer pros

...i actually hit my first real barrel the other day...finally got a day to get the short board out and dust it off after a 2 month hiatus...2 hours in i get this one coming at me that looked pretty steep so i take two a three paddles drop in and make a quick bottom turn back up the face, crouch down, then all the sudden i'm like, holy fuggin shyte i'm in a fuggin barrel!!!!! shot outta that thang to a section and it was over...but i'll never forget it...i wasn't totally pitted, but it was just enough to get the curtain over my head on a chest high day

i think my primary issue with a floater is i'm surfing mushy waves..i've hit them a few times, and yeah, it usually happens keeping a high, with maybe a little floating up & down/gentle pumping to keep/gain speed...thing is, when i have been hitting the crumble lately with a good (can't say it's quite a hack yet at this point) that's it, waves over...think i might need some new waves

 

Right on! Barrell tyme is hard to remember, its another dimension. Floaters are tricky...speed is your friend and suck the board up with your feet, that way you stay light and loose.

 

Lips

 

See, I haven't been here for a bit and already forgot the correct lingo

 

Thank you, fine sir! I love the Sharkhunter welcome back pic!

 

I do love a little well timed backwash to pop over, extra weightlessness if ya do it right

 

I love the feeling of a nice roundhouse or snap off the lip and the projection it gives you when it pitches you right into the pocket as you re-enter

 

How about that one wave from the sesh that sticks with you for days...I mean the one you can't stop thinking about.

Also, when you are sitting outside waiting patiently and you catch that crumbly launch pad that allows you to set up a drawn out bottom turn to snap under the lip for the stall!

and just to bring lips and barrels home, it's the shiznit when you are paddling out in the morning (EC) on afternoon (WC) and you have a nice set rolling through and you get to stall duck dive under the lip as the barrel is coming towards you (I usually yell into it)

 

How about that one wave from the sesh that sticks with you for days...I mean the one you can't stop thinking about.

Also, when you are sitting outside waiting patiently and you catch that crumbly launch pad that allows you to set up a drawn out bottom turn to snap under the lip for the stall!

and just to bring lips and barrels home, it's the shiznit when you are paddling out in the morning (EC) on afternoon (WC) and you have a nice set rolling through and you get to stall duck dive under the lip as the barrel is coming towards you (I usually yell into it)