Newbie to this forum...just want to say HEY!

OK so I am gonna apologize in advance for this thread as it may be a bit long winded.... Starting surfing last year in New England at the young old age of 46 (lol) My son who is 15 picked it up and was hooked right from the start. He has progressed nicely as for me well not so much in the beginning. I have always been very competitive and driven and love being in the water BUT I am 6 ft 230 with about 20lb of "extra" weight on me. Started out on foamies which worked ok as well as the water logged rentals, white wash riding, trying to get up and stand before I hit the sand. Started in July of 2014 and took my lumps on learning going out a total of 24 times before calling it quits for the season in NOV... BTW Stood up and rode a wave about 4 times out of all of those times but would just keep coming back for more!! Winter came and I spent it skiing as I always do watching youtube help videos, making an indo board from and a goof board both from the blueprints they have for them registered online with the us patent website(yea amazed at that but i guess as long as your not selling it your covered).... worked on pop ups on a pillow and rolled towels with my sons actual surf board and even got myself a big guy board (all in at this point)
So after waiting out the winter season I got back out there this spring in march and although my popups were better, I STILL was wiping out, washing out, and getting pummelled. BUT now in mid July I have been finally getting to my feet quickly, and riding waves on the face and consistently getting my front side and heel side turns!

I bought a board by a guy out in Solena beach cali by the name of Joe Blair who makes big guy surfboards. Mine is the Big Guy Quad and was made as a 7 10 x 25 x 3 3/4 It is a single to double concave bottom and he moves the quad fins up about 3 inches. It rides great, paddles easy and turns decent. I can catch 1-2 ft as well as 4-5 ft(not often in ne but some storms in the fall) My only gripe is that I WISH it was not so egg shaped and also a litte more responsive.

Im thinking of going to a different board or at least adding to my quiver but am stuck on what to get? Options are the 7'4" Monsta Chief in 23 x3 1/4 or a Chronic Bully? Or maybe even the VEC BEEFCAKE or something he would shape for me. Anyways, anyone have any suggestions? what do you think?

Thanks in advance!!
Mark
TOOFUN

 

Hey thanks for all the input so far I really appreciate it. Yup I have had people suggest a 9 ft long board but to be honest, I feel like Im paddling a battleship and also getting out back can be a challenge for me too. I also really want to get to the point of carving quick turns and although I may not be there yet, I want to work towards it. I ski and snowboard and have skied since I was 5. I can get sideways on my skis when I cut really hard. Absolute rush to skim the side of my body on a steep side slope with the centrifical force pumping away. I know surfing is different but I hope to get that snappy turn style someday. Anyways, would love to do demo days but noone around New England does them. Not that I know of anyways hence the guess work when it comes to boards...

Frost what makes you a legend if you dont mind me asking? Also although i appreciate the offer I live in Mass. Keep em coming guys and gals. I really appreciate it.

Mark
TOOFUN

 

HA HA HA Thanks Zeroevol. Glad to finally find a site. Everyone has opinions as Im sure I will find out but I have a very thick skin. My wife calls me the Silverback Gorilla cause of my bigger size arse, I say its because of my big arms and chiseled jaw(lol) My kids call me "ORCA" when they see me surf because I look like a whale when surfing.... I say its because all of the other animals of the sea fear me including SHARKS!! he he, so you see gotta find the positive spin on things! Surfing to me is an obsession. I was hooked the first time I caught my first GOOD wave and although I am into it only a year, I know I will be doing it for as long as my body can handle it. I only wish I started it 35 years ago!!

Oh and as far as Frost goes? If I had the money and the room I would buy all kinds of surfboards and display them in a room. I love the way they look, the way they smell and the way they feel. I guess you could say I have a surfboard fetish!!(insert the smartass comments here) but for the moment I only have one.. I also have found that surfing to me is like eating Chinese food... an hour later I feel like doing it again!

TOOFUN

 

Sharknado thanks for the advise. I will consider it. I do know this for sure, thickness has to be at least 3" for me. Ive tried a couple of boards long and short that were less than that and Ive sunk them. I know thickness is not the only factor but seems to me to be an important one for my size....

 

Yea I try and ride anything people will let me. A few weeks ago I ran into a guy in the water that was staring at my board, we got to talking about it and I let him have a go on it. He was riding a 9 ft AIPA and really wanted to go to a shorter board but was big like me. He fell in love with my board and is now trying to sell off other boards he owns so he can get one. The AIPA paddled unbelievably easy but like I said I am looking for a more aggressive board. Not planning on selling this board UNTIL I am 100% happy with the replacement. May even keep it. Also rode a fun shaped 8 ft RUSSELL board that was shaped before the guy passed away. Older board but was AWESOME to ride, so easy to paddle, get up on and even move a bit, but my buddy bought 5 of them before he left cali and moved here and he is NOT SELLING IT for any amount of money!!(bastard!!lol).

Porky Pig I am not, just a silverback with a little bit of extra belly fat to SURF off... well thea thea thea thats all folks!!!