-Waist to chest high -Drunk ra-tard burned me on his first wave then tried to fight me, cause I pushed him over -Was driving home later and almost pooped my pants cause surfed too long for my bow movements - just made it home and hit the rim, messy -caught in grid lock trying to go back andsurf after my bathroom run - decided to go to work instead - two dogs just running down the highway in and out of traffic, cars all over the road - pulled over and some wahine jumped out her car to help and said "wanna go get them" as the ran way down the road almost getting hit - agreed and got totally burned by her running to the dogs. I swear she was the flash. Today I am an inferior human being. But the dogs are alive, and the toilets clean
- left house at 6:15am - ate a bacon egg and cheese bagel sandwich doused in Tabasco while on the way - arrived at beach at 6:45am, waves not very big but some fun sets came through - got burned by no one cuz there were only about 4 sponges out and 3 surfers out. Two of the surfers just paddled around - only stayed out for about an hour and a half, but still had fun - came home, ejected the bacon egg and cheese bagel - didn't have to save any dogs, but I did have to go around all of the out of staters that park their f'n cars in the damn fast lane It was an okay day
Woke up.. Decided to get a little high... Next thing I know it's like 6:30pm and I'm back from work and had lunch at some point... I think I can remember what happened.... Just need to get a little bit high....
6:30 Woke-up 9:00 Arrived in Clearwater 9:01-3:00 Scored 6 foot drainers whilst victory at sea, quarter pounder with mac sauce for lunch. 1:00 -Watch Two chicks go ham on each while going ham on some beers.
