looks like Point Judith on a 2 foot clean swell in august. Minus the long lines and barrels. Just a handful of those would make my year. Filthy.
gawd, that wave is perfect. If that were malibu, there's be 10 a-holes burning each other on every wave...appears Australians are more respectful in that sense.
That opening shot gives me the chills. . . Imagine growing up with that in your backyard? I wonder how much your surfing would improve if you lived there for a few months.
Yeah who am I kidding... breaking through mediocrity is tougher than it sounds. And it sounds awesome. I only composed this sentence to use that word.
Great wave, crowd sucks. Saw one guy catch it way out and work the f out of that wave beautifully for a loooooooooong ride. Vid switched away before he was done.
My surfing is like watching a heartbeat monitor. I have one day where I'm Mick Fanning and the next three sessions I'm garbage. But what REALLY makes you a great surfer is knowing the right excuses, be it the conditions, that damn 6/5 that I can barely move in, an aggravated joint or back that you can always go to when you suck, or you can even blame the Jews. There is always an excuse for why you weren't on your game.
Whaddup Unky2B...you forgot the best one, it's the board man, the board. And the N. Koreans. And aliens. They're all behind everything.
