who here has been surfing this week?

Looked like small fun yesterday so I paddled out at my little offshore corner. It was looking very small, so I put on my one unbroken kicks fin on my right and a customX fin left, ditched the leash, and DK'ed most of the session. Thrust was about he same from each, surprisingly. Just the board, fins and boardies. I love this warm water!

A little refraction off the seawall set up short, punchy waist-high lefts with the occasional warped chest-hi barrel. Much more fun than I expected for a quick lunch session. Clear water.

The best thing about surfing alone is that, when the wave of the day comes through, you get it all to yourself. If you do a surf check of an empty spot for 5 minutes and you see some mediocre waves come through, you know you're gonna get something better than what you're looking at. If you do a surf check of a zooed out spot and see mediocre waves, then you know that's likely all you're gonna get, as you'll have to jockey/luck into being in position when the choicest waves roll through.

Today should be bigger and better if the wind is right.

 

Checked this morning and it was waisthigh powerless mush. Even LBs were'nt able to catch much. Oh well maybe sat.

 

Caught it yesterday evening at a reef break at dead low tide. My buddy's kid called, he needed a ride to the beach, he's 14 and has been surfing since 10. I thought no one would be out. It was solid chest high on the sets and 3 - 4 waves per set,breaking just north of an exposed reef that sticks out of the water. A few submerged rocks, but most of the underwater reef was covered by sand.

The incoming tide gave the waves some juice over the shallow hard bottom, and the waves were very fun. There was 3 mini groms out when we got there, and one of them was killing it. From the boardwalk, he looked like a young pro surfer, busting airs, shredding faces with power hacks, and doing speed runs and drawing perfect lines. A couple guys in their late 20s/early 30s -locals - paddled out. The kid was by far the best surfer out there, and we were all getting lots of waves, some good cutbacks, backside off the lip bashes - on shortboards and fishes. One guy had his new Lost...V2 and he was getting some nice rights.

When we got out, I asked my little bud if he knew the kid. He said he knew him from a mutual friend, he was only 11 years old! He has blond hair and a big smile, so all the kids call him John John Junior. All I can say is WOW!

 

On Monday I went to the beach to surf--it was flat so I went home and mowed the lawn.
On Tuesday I went to the beach to surf--it was flat so I went home and mowed the lawn.
On Wednesday I went to the beach to surf--it was flat so I went home and mowed the lawn.
On Thursday I went to the beach to surf--it was flat so I went home and mowed the lawn.

My lawn is going to hate me.

 

apparently, mowing your lawn is causing the flatness...STOP DOING THAT!

 

Hey MOE!

 

Yesterday was surprisingly fun.

I roll up to the beach around 1130, at the same time as my buddy. I'm pulled over on the gravel road behind the little rock-littered sand "dune" that separates the beach from the camper parking. It's dead high tide and little blue-water waves are humping up on the beach. Outside, the water is moving around a little, but it looks like just closed out shorey breaking pretty much on the sand. I see a little waist-high wedge that looks fun, so I say go, while my buddy says no.

I drive down a little way and park behind a bigger dune near the showers. Because it's just barely rideable, I grab my one remaining kicks and my crappy customx backup. My board is still leashless from the day before. It's so warm and so small that I go sans rashy. So I climb the dune. I'm standing relaxed with nothing but boardies, lid, and mismatched fins on boulders half-buried in sand. I'm looking over the the sun-warmed yellow beach with the dark blue Pacific glittering beyond, listening to the surf and seagulls. At that moment, I had a feeling of total ease. Warm sand between my toes, cool breeze in my face, and the anticipation of empty relaxed waves where I could just do whatever whenever. Nobody else out, hardly even a soul in sight. It was a nice feeling.

I walked down the beach to the corner where the seawall holds the wind off all day, and the last bit of surf from the offshore canyon mounts up to a respectible size on some days. There's better spots nearby when the sand is good, but the sand is gone now that it's the end of a summer of nonstop south and tropical swells.

So this little crappy corner is all that's left. When it's small, it's really small. When it's Head High or bigger, it's usually just a massive closeout. It really only holds shape from waist-to-chest high. Even then, you've gotta be lucky and able to read the waves. The beach bends just wrong so the wave can close out literally from the off the corner of the seawall--about 75 yards out all the way down the beach to the sand, where it ends as a tiny knee-high shorey. It can be really frustrating to be at the top of an OH+ outside bomber, look left and see it closing out in a deathbomb into the seawall, look right and see it closing out all the way to the beach.

Sometimes there's a refraction off the seawall that sets up a punchy warpy left-hander, or gives you a slingshot launch pad into a heavy shallow sand monster. Otherwise, you just take a big drop and pick to either get shacked and then destroyed in a bomb closout or turn in and escape the lip, just to get steamrolled by the whitewash.

Today, however, it ended up just the right size. The refraction off the seawall was generating a rampy left-hander with occasional microbarrels. Pretty much waist high to waist+. I caught a nice left DK, paddled right back out and into a lovely in-and-out(through the curtain) mini barrel.

A couple of other regulars showed up with their boogers and paddled out. Then the break went completely apes--t. Out of nowhere, a double set of no less than five OH bombs each rolled in and blew the place up. I got one, ended up on the sand, with mini-tsunami spashover washing all around. I skimmed right back out, fought through the incoming set, turned and went on a scary dredging right-hand square deathbarrel.

Then, just like that, it was over. Back to flat, with just brown sandy water and leftover foam the only sign that anything out of the ordinary had occured. The other boogers mentioned something about the Chile tsunami.

The sand settled, the water returned to crystal clarity, the foam drifted offshore, and I went back to catching that little left ramp.

Then BOOM! It happened again. Without warning outsiders stacked up and bombed the crap out of the place. I wished for my leash, because I was chasing my board all over the beach after each wave, but I was having a blast.

 

I eventually quit and headed back to work happy, tired, and rattled by a solid shorey session. Today will probably be more consistent, but it was a lot of fun to see--very clearly--forerunners from a very long-period swell transform a lazy day into something exciting.

 

Bumps of Speed you bout that life huh dawg

Hey I got something in the works for a three week stay in your neck of the woods in February

Staying with my boy who surfs standup so I'll be looking to link up with some King Dong Draggers

 

In Feb Neenyo will be raining the shiite out of us. If things come together it might be all-time somewhere, and I'll be there. Internet stalk me with PM's or something when the time comes and maybe we'll meet up.

Otherwise I'll be at C-street or maybe ****** some dawnies with the rest of the county and vals. There's only a handful of boogs ever there, so shout "hi speedbump" at 'em one-by-one until you find me. I'm the one that doesn't suck.

Today was better than yesterday, but the wind was kinda on it, so it wasn't as chill a sesh. I wasn't peace-out toes in the sand. Shape and size were good--for the craptastic beachbreak that it is, and the ENTIRE reg crew (3 brahs) showed up. It was semi-chop but I still found a barrel or two. Some fat tourists waddled out with boogies during a lull and got destroyed when a set came in. That was fun and provided some aggro-tainment.

 

There you go. See you can post like a normal person. Turn your pictures so they are not sideways.

 

Today was pretty good , waist - chest glassy and playful. Got some good turns, snaps, off the lip, roundhouse, etc., feeling good!

 

Agreed^^^ surfed up by Patrick afb from 7 till about 10 everyone looked like they were havin fun.

 

Had some fun wind choppe at home earlier in the week.

Today I went shouldre hopping at the secret inlet againe. The water was murky so I had to performe a Level 2 (Limited Visibility) sand reconne prior to any wave surfing bored riding action. While surveying the sediment I spotted Betty in the water. I immediately noticed that her leg rope was tied in an impropre manner. I counselled her about her egregious oversight. I explained that not only was she putting herself at grave risk but also jeopardizing the safety of everybody around. She seemed to take it to heart though she gave me kind of a funny look. We also agreed not to throw each other's stuff in the water so that was one less thing for me to worry aboot.

Waist high, mostly clean. Light winde. Crowd came and went. My stuff is dry. I remembered to bring a towel.

Life is good. I feel sorry for people that don't surf.

 

There was some fading windswell here this morning, waist high early. The water is always very murky here. My sand reconne consists of paddling out, sliding off of my board, and poking around with my toes to feel how deep it is.

Was head high yesterday but a big blow out with cross/onshore winds.

 

Hit the pier for dp this am. Got a nasty leg cramp, couldn't get rid of it and had to bail. Made up for it later, got a solid hour or so in the pm. Time for grillin' and chillin.

 

if I don't stretch before a sesh, I get muscles cramps...especially if I haven't surfed in a couple of weeks.

 

Weird thing is I stretched and was well hydrated, and I almost never get leg cramps.

Thanks for the tip though waterbaby!

 

lolz Valhalla

Sunday was thigh to waist peelers. Great LB day. My sons caught the longest waves they've ever surfed/boogered. A couple LBers were giving them some props. Overall a real friendly sesh for everybody. They were both so stoked! Good day for sure.Oh, and our stuff was dry and we didn't forget a towel.