I haven't surfed the past couple weeks...Crazy. Work is ****ing me hard, so hard. It looks like a lot of closeouts by me up in MoCo, so I'll keep telling myself I am not missing anything.
Here in dirty jersey swell period is increasing. last night was super fun. This morning was kinda fun too- but those longer period swells roll thru and with a lot of east in the swell = a lot of closeouts... your regular old sand bar around here just cant handle it. There are some stand out spots that can (which Im not going to name). for instance, I just checked Belmar and it was going off... anyways- I agree with you sandblasters- the insiders are peeling so much better. I sat a little inside and had a few good ones... other guys waited on the outside only to drop into some nice looking bomb sets, but got closed out on 90% of the waves...
Yup... Sets were super fast at low tide yesterday afternoon, but as the tide filled in, and the sets kept coming, it got good. Plenty of punch. The current was really strong for the size of the swell, though... probably because of the lunar phase creating a super high tide and super low tide. Takes a lot of water moving around to make the transition.
One can drown in a bathtub if they aren't careful... Laugh at sand recon if u want but glad I did cause the deep gullies are back like they were in spring where I go...
Ol Frosty I'm really sorry for you..id be even more sorry for your wife and kids when you die "surfing" cause you can't swim Ol Frosty you ain't never seen the dark side of El Niño and you should be afeared for your life if you plan to "sand recon or whatever the fark these naggers be saying" Ah but the skulls of inbreed Virginians are to thick to understand what I be sayin' Hey atleast post a nude of your wife so when you loose your life one of these fine gentlemen on the interwebs can scoop her up and give her children the protection she always wanted
Last night was another perfect evening of waist to chest waves. My shoulders are starting to get sore.
I can't believe I'm opting to go to work on a 6-7 foot "good to epic" day, will get some after the shift. That's how good it's been these past few days! Not too late to make the drive yall.
Thunderstorms and 20+ mph gusts all day, though. I may be getting old, but that doesn't sound like much fun. Edit: just looked at the SI prediction. 6ft @13 sec. There aren't many breaks in this area that can hold that, from what I have seen. I could be wrong. I know of one spot that looks like it could hold it, but I have never surfed there.
Check out this little guy, I've never seen him before. This will be interesting if it stays true.. 96hz out now. 15-25ft? I didn't even know that was a thing. Unfortunately, no matter what, no amount of sand reconne will hold that along these shores.
This was DE yesterday afternoon. Had more size in the morning and dropped by noon, not sure what the evening had
the models for sunday are going nuts lol. onshore winds will most likely be a problem through the weekend. surf looks fun right now by me while the winds are switching from SW to N. just sitting at my desk wanting to kill myself. we've had all this swell and i've barely been able to surf anything good
i think joaquin is gonna be little too close and screw us all (everyone on the east coast but not florida) out of some good long period ground swell
Caught some of the best waves I've got all summer! Shoulder high or better on the drop, clean and peeling. Hour late to work. Fark em'.
If it dumps a bunch of rain on Chas. we gonna be under water with the super high tides. Water was a foot from folly road last couple mornings with some flooded streets here and there with no rain at all.