Super fun this morning with 5 ft 10.5 second swell. A few head high+ sets every 20 minutes or so Finally some offshore winds on the banks. The spot I surfed had a 12' dune cut in half from erosion...this storm may wash that area out!
It was decent here today with a 10 or 11 second swell period. Was waist/chest, and they don't seem to be closing out as bad as they used to. I swear I saw some A frames out there. I don't even know if it was Ida's leftovers or the leading edge of Joaquin, but I had fun. My sand reconne was very discouraging though, since there's not as much sand to reconne anymore. Whether it's all erosion, or some combination of rising sea levels and erosion, I don't know. There is much less beach than 10 years ago when I moved here. And there's no beach at all now at high tide.
Yea Z! thx. Hope all are getting some. Just check some of the cams and it is looking fun still. let's see what this next storm has on tap. Scarecrow...I was thinking a little of both. It was chest high (from the late IDA) and every 20 minutes two-three wave sets would pump in (front end of Joaquin)???? Either way it was offshore and I have been watching onshore victory at sea for a week!
I don't get it,im seeing these massive swells,but short period.jaoquin should be long period,and says its supposed to pass nj on Monday and the waves are decreasing.so where da phug are these 20footers coming from?havnt checked the weather,but I'm guessing its going to be one killer storm
Well I'll share this from this afternoon about sand recon.... Waves maybe knee to thigh few bigger block or so down at the surf break I see two guys wade out to waist high with their boards lay flat paddle once or twice and turn around and sit on them.... No waves down there so they lay flat and paddle parallel to almost directly in front of me... Little did they know that they are sitting on there boards in exactly 3 -4ft deep water and worse 5 yards inland it gets shallower down to calf depth.... So these guys are gonna drop in on a decent punch wave and be in 1 ft of water within seconds..is just knowing the seasons and break Iop has deep gullies now then high shallower areas easy to break a board if you don't know where your at...
agreed. well overhead sets down here every 5 min or so. I went this morning at high tide and the waves were crumbly but everyone was getting nice long rides. It's been good all week so far.
Now the winds look to be less than ideal until Sunday. Now showing almost 11ft at 13sec on Sat. No thanks.
Still had some chest high or better this morning. Pretty clean but not as lined up as yesterday. A little thumpy due to tide but I gotta go when I can. Arms are spent.
frost bro i hope your praying this storm doesnt kill your sand recon routine.. it could make or break the sandbars and that means you might have to be on your tippy toes to check the deep spots i think im gonna send some arm floaties your way