Lip. Barrel.

^^ yep. a good roundhouse cutback is not easy to do. it's very easy to just put the brakes on completely and bog-down. it should be one fluid sweeping manoeuvre.

 

Same here, got a few I still can't stop thinking about. I love ending it on a positive note like that. Even if the rest of the sessions sucked, if you get that one on the last wave of the day and walk off it helps you to remember just that one.

 

#4lyfe...

yea, there are a handful of waves that I will never forget.

We caught like the swell of the decade at Pavones back in 99' and it was firing for 5 days straight. One day we were catching waves from the point/outside rivermouth all the way til you had straighten out at the flat rock. I got three waves that day that way and walked the road back...those three waves will always be remembered!

 

normally I like to put my barrel in the lips if ya know what I mean...

I was watching the sunset pro yesterday,and little seth moniz I think it was,took like a 15 ft wave/lip on the head,everyones covering their mouths like oh my god,when the wave finally passed,he was already paddling back out.thats how ya get it done

 

If there's a barrel, I always go for the barrel. Every wave has a lip.

 

Maine-ly mushy beach break...gettin bored, need some better/bigger swell, some bars, and better direction swell

You guys get "spot" burn out? Maybe I'm just lazy and need to find a way to carve out time to explore a bit

 

cutting across the peak pumping the hell out of your board and making a fast clean barrel is my favorite

 

I definitely cycle through about four spots/zones for exactly that reason. They tend to come and go with the seasons....one will start to work like crazy for a few weeks, i'll suddenly surf it for like 10 sessions straight maybe even a month or two and then something says: "move on"

 

Thought I might be the only one, glad to know I'm not...

My problem is I'm always pressed for time...so then, rather than drive an extra 30 min (both ways) or walk 15 min (for a spot check, again both ways) and sacrifice water time I take the easy way and just go to the cammed up spot and sit in the less crowded spot and wait for my typical left...or sometimes paddle in to the zoo and get some rights...it's been months since I've gone anywhere else and I'm definitely feeling less stoked...like I need to get a hold of one where I make a serious progression to feel anything other than a need for more and more and more...which ends up feeling less than satisfying at the end of the session

 

Surfing the same spot... or spots... all the time is like riding the same board all the time. Sooner or later you need to break it up and do something different.

As far as the best kind of barrel... for me it's not the big, gaping, full speed, straight ahead growler that I like best. It's the bottom turn fade... the hand drag... the break pedal... the high line slip-slide... body English through the keyhole type barrel I like best. Something that requires syncing the movements of your body and board with the changing contours of the wave. And when it's done... you can't quite remember how it happened.

 

Yea LB....I like that too....especially backside. The stall out backside to rail grab and sliding down the face into the barrel. Hard to beat a screamer down the line where the wave actually throws out in front of you for a long thick section and you just drive through it with no brakes at all!

 

I like pus c

 

I like this way of getting barreled a lot. I've had two sessions in the past month on a chest+ northeast swell where the lefts were kind of running down the sandbar.

The set waves were predicable - started doing the same thing on every wave...drop in early, watch the wave start to set up/catch up, tail stall for all I was worth..maybe two or three pumps to really slow down...then when I seemed like the barrel was caught up, slam front foot forward and accelerate out.

Another tactic was so ride out on the flats for a second or so, let the wave catch up, then snap back up on the face right in the pocket. At least it seemed like I was accomplishing something (which made the sessions fun as hell...I really like feeling like I worked for the barrel). From the beach it probably just looked like shuffling feet around on stomach high waves!

 

yes. this.

 

Pus: an exudate, typically white-yellow, yellow, or yellow-brown, formed at the site of inflammation during infection.

C: Citigroup Inc. (C)

That's weirder than electrical sockets, dude!

 

barreelllll