Best sessions of all time

This may sound lame but watching my son catch the longest wave he's ever rode at the end of this summer. His stoke was off the charts for days.

 

Nothing lame about that

 

One of the hurricane swells from 2014, caught the deepest longest barrels of my life in 75 degree water. Early morning dawn patrol made the barrel that greenish coke bottle color. Perfect racing chest high waves, had to crouch to get covered. Was super dialed in that morning...surfed for three hours and then got some chick fil a and went to work and got to brag to some friends.

 

Super cool...that's what life is about. Family and Friends....all the other S/9t we ba0tch about don't matter!

 

Lazy those memories always top the charts. Ive got a bunch of them myself.
Too many countless memories for myself. Ill always remember a sick stand up barrel i got locally w pristine conditions only 2 other guys out sun setting super clear and clean. I was inside the tube my buddy lookin down n in from the shoulder hootin his brains out. Such a rarity to have that. Lots of great memories from even knee high days. Could talk surf for weeks on end. So much stoke. Blessed to be a surfer

 

I remember the baptism, that was a weird story if I ever heard one lol

Right on dude

 

The past year I've had some splendid chest and under sessions that were really fun and allowed me to go at it for 6-8 hours without feeling fatigued or overwhelmed like I would on a big day. Little shoulder barrels, good solid turns, etc.

Most recently at OOB in November, with one other dude I met in the parking lot suiting up, had belly-to-chest waves by the pier all to ourselves. As a smaller dude, I go myself covered up quite a bit. Very clean, perfect shape, nobody else in the water. Plus I finally "understood" my LSD Tex board that day, unlocked the magic, and tossed some buckets.

Ive surfed better waves and better weather, but the isolation to perfection ratio was perfect, and the pleasure of having a new board come alive--- that was session of the year for sure.

Had a great follow up session not that long ago in NH. A little smaller but perfect belly+ when SI called it at 1-2'. That was the day I cracked the code on my mini simmons. That was a fun day.

 

it was a tropical storm a few weeks after hurricane bill,what was that 08 or 09 idremember....and that was near the "cave" I think they call it in longbranch,theres a seawall above sea level,and the waves were crashing into the wall,no need to walk down the steps,just jumped straight off the wall into the water,i paddled out with one of the Mexican locals there,kid was ripping,but it was pretty flawless and pretty hectic at the same time.it was a tubefest.

also the January 29th swell I think it was after sandy.i went in the morning,it was foggy,victory at sea.came back a few hours later ,it cleaned up and there were some hefty size barrels that weren't closing out lol

 

Santa Cruz waking up everyday for weeks straight and surfing the point for hours. First time surfing a point break and its great, long rides and a few days were 8ft+. Cristobal in AC one of the biggest days ive been out solid overhead sets barreling off "the pier". Any session is favorite session.

 

"Any session is favorite session"
Well said....words to live by.

France autumn 2014, caught long conveyor belt powerful rip far outside, sun just peeking over the dunes, paddled hard into first wave of the DP sesh, DOH but didn't realize it until it kept going & going vert on me, that one & the other big-shouldered waves that morning were 400 yd long rights with almost no one out there. Le Nord.

Maycocks Feb 2015, clean, green & peeling head high swell on a reef break; over & over, maybe 30 waves? who knows, so much pure fun, long paddle backs to peak, just two of us out the entire Saturday morning sesh, incredible, exhausted, staggered up coral path to car & Banks beers.

CR, many times, getting the tide right so it wasn't too steep nor too soft, turning & taking off on the growlers, those long ramps in tropical waters.

Several epic, yes I said it epic, sessions at OCMD & The-Place-That-Shall-Not-Be-Named over the past few years. One twilight sesh at TPTSNBN in particular: peeling waist high rights, warm water, late summer sunset scalding everything orange & deep blues, and the dolphins....the dolphins surfing, literally surfing with us, deliberately a few feet away from us, taking huge leaps & splatting into the flats, turning & going for more, indelibly burned into the memory as one of those days when one understands why one is alive.

Surfing makes it possible.

 

Great treadde! Thanks for all da visuals. Really great stuff. I'll have to sleep on it, but Lugundri Bay, Nias?!? Damn! Surfers Journal material. Mitchell, you da man!

 

The times I've gone out with my sons. The conditions weren't great, but best sessions nonetheless.

 

Summer of 1984...don't remember exact day, but only have been surfing a couple years prior...it was in OCMD just north of the carosouel...which is ok to be named, surf just ain't there anymore...head to 2/3' overhead. And it wasn't the size but it was just the manner it was breaking...relatively soft, not a breath of air...it was pure glass. Kinda looked like perfect trestles.

I have surfed other places, like in New Hampshire, that was insanely good...and the OBX...but that one day for whatever reason has always stuck with me. Had some crazy good sessions at my local break too that are on top of the list of great days.

 

My buddy and I were heading to Hatteras to hopefully connect with Hurricane Irene in 2005. We got down there early Saturday and it was waist high at best and conditions weren't even that great. After floundering around for a while we decided to get some lunch and see if our rented unit was ready for us. We called and she said we could check in early. In no rush we ate, went to the store to gather items for the cottage for the weekend.

The place I rented was a little cheap cottage but it was right on the beach, on a dune, almost falling in the water. When we climbed the steps to the cottage, which the steps were basically on the dune so you couldn't immediately see the ocean. When we arrived at the top of the steps it was as if we had went to heaven. It was one of the most beautiful sights I had ever seen, It was like someone flipped the switch. The waves were so perfect and barreling, one after one they rolled in. The lines were perfection and there really was less than a handful of people out at this spot.

I instantly threw my sh!t down, grabbed my board and hit the water. Once I finally got out passed the breakers I caught my breath and rested for a moment. I then began to wonder how am I going to catch one of these big beauties. I started to paddle around to find the right spot and finally I just said the hell with it, this one's mine. We've all been there when you kinda have to make yourself just go. I paddled into one of the most perfect waves I've ever been on. The takeoff was so smooth and effortless, the drop was so perfect that it really wasn't even that hard. The ride was just pure bliss.

Afterward, I came up with the biggest smile and paddled back out again. All that Saturday and most of Sunday it was just absolute perfection wave after wave. The waves were probably 8-10-12', but even the bigger set waves were actually easy. It was like an angel would just pick you up and carry you The drops weren't do or die, just super smooth and glassy and after the drop it would start to suck up and barrel. It was perfect for me because I've never been good at making really steep drops.

A year prior to this I had taken my first trip to Costa Rica, Playa Negra and while I did catch awesome waves and some definitely were make or break drops. I got my a$$ beat there. It was fun/challenging but nothing has been like that day in OBX and I've been to Nica and Hawaii too. Just absolute perfection, it reminded me of waves in Indo or something. I always wonder if I'll experience something like that again. Ahhhhh

In the pic where it was closest to OBX is when I was there.

Cheers

 

I'm gonna say the first time I surfed the Pacific. It was dawn patrol, Dominical, CR. The night before, I couldn't sleep,it sounded like freight trains roaring though at regular intervals.

My buddy suggested we go to The Point, a bit south of the rivermouth. It was epic. DOH plus, and I caught some bombs like butter. I've surfed bigger waves (here and there), and better waves (Pavones), and prettier waves (Singer Island), but that was the closest I've come to drowning. Broke my leash duck diving a rogue set, bodysurfed in over shallow boulders, found my board, and lived to tell the tale. I still remember the power of a long period (NZ) swell, and my first attempts at duckdiving. The setup was rocky, and the takeoffs were steep, and I can still feel the adrenaline rush as I sip on my colada and type this. Whoo hoo!

 

I caught hurricane Felix back in the late 90's at Montauk point , it was a ESE swell at the point I paddled out. Everywhere else was closed out it was to big for any other spot to handle the size (biggest waves of my life and I was friggin sh!ttin in my baggies) . The waves were piontbreakin around the lighthouse and running up the north side of the point. The drop was so high speed you had to go straight and wait to slow down before you could bottom turn or you'd skippout and get hammered ( I learned this the hard way). After that it was the biggest open face cloud break point. So fun I hope to catch it like this one more time before I expire....

 

Cool, would be good to see. Lake E looks to be on fire most of the week..

 

I stayed in Waikiki for a week once and dawn patrolled Queens and Canoes everyday. Not sure if it was my charm or my retardedness, but the locals took to me openly, and hooted me into some 4-5' Hawaiian walls. never forget the feeling of that first magical surf trip. aloha redefined