who here has been surfing this week?

Its been bad and getting worse. Everyone thinks they are better than they are and feel entitled up here.
Ive had more altercations this year than the past 5 combined.

 

Exactly. Probably 50 guys out and plenty of beach to share. Really good right now.

 

Yesterday DP was really fun on the LB, thigh - waist, occasionally a tad bigger set came through. Glassy, light offshore, and lots of waves for everybody. Had a nice crew of 4-5 that all knew each other, hooting each other into waves, not too annoying just postage vibes. I left tired and satisfied.

My wife watched from the beach, and then later in the day surprised me and asked if I could take her out later to give it a try. She's not a water person, but she has gone out a couple times with me in the past but it's been a couple years since. She doesn't catch any waves yet, but it was fun paddling out with her together. She was tired within 30 minutes and went in but she actually had fun!

 

Well, finally got a nice 2 hour morning in the water. Waves were head high at largest point, glassy, and well shaped, most but not all. Just out with 2 real good friends, trading waves and lots of fun. And it was warm enough (35*F) to change standing at the rear of the car.
And now....time for a nice cup of home-brew coffee.
And also now, time to hear what is on the "honey-do-list"......hahahaha!! Which I never mind doing after a great session.
Hope you all got a few nice one in.

 

Fun ones in rodanthe yesterday if you knew where to look....

 

good jersey juice yesterday, finally a heavy paddle and some good hold downs plus very few out in the lineup

 

waves were semi epic yesterday in jers cant complain.great to get wet,still in my 4/3 everything groovy.ended the night by downing a bottle of henny with some pharmacueticals and drove to taco bell at 12:30 am lol.mad cops were out,but I was good,i don't drive drunk I know my limits.

 

Confession...

Yesterday I had a short session and only caught 2 waves. Had to leave, and was left feeling totally unsatisfied. Even though I normally would say to myself... at least I got two waves... yesterday was different. I felt as depressed as if I were to have missed it all. Which happens...

Today I got out for an hour or so before dark, and tried to get myself in a positive place again. I knew it was junk, but thought if I got a few waves I might forget about yesterday. Grabbed the fish and hit my local solo.

The water was crystal clear (which I couldn't quite understand)... and cold.

The 5mil is gonna get some taking used to...

Snow... beautiful. Surf... eh. Peace of mind... bliss.

You gotta make the best of what you're given... I guess.

 

I think we all have those days, a redemption session after a struggle session is very satisfying.

 

like make up sex after an argument

 

Exactly hahahaha

 

small pickings today, but enjoyable non the less. been out the water for too long, glad to get wet. paddled for a bunch, got maybe like 2 or 3. no bother went to get food after with my girl and it started snowin. the future was wide open. peace and love y'all.

 

Def had those sessions! Yesterday, I was a couple streets down from the pics Mitchell took. I only had a short time to surf, I didn't go over the falls or get nailed by the lip, but the session was just so so. I paddled back out at 4:30 and even though I only had a short time before dark, everything aligned. Totally made up for the morning! Size had dropped significantly, but still some some nice size waves coming through.

 

Towelie, what up homie?!?!

 

hey Z! im just poppin in and out to stir the soup a little, how's you? glad to hear you got some of this bump

 

All good in the hood!

 

Got some thick ones yesterday , not the biggest or the best but here's one!

 

Join the rest of the club. Yesterday was nice, had a nice session, but only a couple of waves can be said to be memorable for me. I blame the swell, I blame the swell direction, I blame I was on the wrong board, I blame my 5/4 wetsuit......
But no, all false. It just wasn't my best day out there. But I still burned off a lot of calories, shed a lot of rust off of my body, and went merrily along my way knowing the ocean will provide many great days ahead.

 

I'll add my confession that I had an epic fail day with epic waves. It still burns my ass two days later. It took me 3 times to get out because the spot I was at was a far paddle and hugging the jetty actually turned out to be working against me. Finally figured out the third try that I had to paddle out away from the jetty. By the time I got out I was shot. I got caught inside once on a sneaker set and got pummeled so that didn't help. I didn't wipe out on any, but I didn't catch any either Really dissapointed in myself because I've been waiting for a day like this forever. I also blame my board (too short for my old ass), should have taken my 7'2" but I didn't want to duck dive that beast.. but really I was just off that day on life in general. Pissed!

 

So I put my gear in the car this morning with my board, drive the 1 minute 30 seconds to the beach to go surfing. Get there, do the "re-conn", turn around and go home. Just was not worth getting super chilled for the knee highs, no matter how glassy.......