who here has been surfing this week?

sick one!

 

nice

 

Checked **r***, a little junky. Nice size, but nah.
Checked **s*, clean but small and kinda walled.
Checked **p** **b**, working on the sets, but long lulls.
Checked ***n**, junky and busy.
Checked **r***, busy, sectiony, soft.
Rechecked ***n**, only a slight improvement.
Rechecked **s*, wind was starting to get on it, but looking good for tomorrow.

Said "forget it." Tomorrow will be better.

 

always watch that sideshore current before u paddle out especially on a south swell.i seen guys paddle out in the middle between 2 jettys and get swept to the jetty on the left.on days like this,id paddle out like 2 inches from the jetty on the right,and the currents going to take u to the left and before u get pulled into the left jetty,the rip will take u right out,u have to duckdive 3 or 4 bombs,but after that ur on the outside...relax get ur breath,then start catching some waves

 

I had a great session, but it ended with me getting caught inside, I wasn't ready to come in it was sooo good, but I had surfed for 3 hours, then caught a nice one, and got caught by 4 successive sets. I duck dove at least 20 times, then just sat on my board on the inside waiting for a lull, which never came. I had no fight left, arms were toast. I have no room to complain as it was an awesome session, but I hate ending a surf with my tail between my legs. Much prefer to ride one all the way in, step on to the beach, then flip off my hood to the roars of my adoring fans. But instead, I floundered in, sputtering, savaging Jesus's good name, barely able to carry my board, my fans nowhere in sight, it was pitiful.

 

Word!

 

I can't remember the last time I got a good wave and got out. It's usually more like "sure I have time for one more"

I'll get out if I get calf cramps, more than four shatty waves in a row, when I know I have a full breakfast including sausage and doughnuts at home, when I start counting sea birds etc.

 

Man, sorry you guys had lackluster sessions. I had the opposite on sunday, will elaborate from pc. So many made barrels and bot a soul in sight.

 

If, while waiting for a wave, you tell yourself "next wave is my last one", it either never comes, or you get bonked on the head with your board as it closes out on you. Always make the decision for the last wave AFTER you ride one in up to the shore.
That is Barrys Law # 2 of Surf Dynamics.

Rule #1 is "First person in the water determines where the crowd will be".

Rule #3......TBD: coming soon to a surf site near you!!

 

dude ****ies looked FUUUUUUN on saturday night but it was too heavy for me to risk the knee on with other mellower spots in such close proximity.

 

I bet it was bombing dude, honestly glad I was on it sunday morning instead...got some real memorable waves. I was overdue for that sesh.

 

yea dude it went from knee high to overhead in 1 set. Swellinfo really nailed it. I left my house once the jersey cams started popping and it was still flat in rhode island, thinking we might be getting shadowed by the outer islands or LI because it was a weird angle. Swellinfo called for it to jump from knee to chest high in less then an hour, and then up to overhead while surfline called for it to be flat.

I made the hour and a half drive, and sure enough it was flat....until the next set came in and swellinfo called it like clockwork. Overhead bombs the rest of the day. I love when the internet works, and surfline needs to work on its eastcoast forcasting. Team of professionals my @ss

 

So true, it either never comes or it takes like an hour to finally line one up. I agree, if you get a solid ride and it was getting close to the end of your session, just cut it short on a positive note, our greed for another wave sometimes doesn't allow that though HAHA

 

At 9:30 it was flat. At 10:30 it was bombing, and I paddled out alone... had it to myself for a half an hour.

 

Redemption session?

 

That's what I needed the next day... leaving after that half hour tore my heart out. But... I had a commitment to something bigger than surfing, so...

 

It's not how quantity or length of session but the quality of the the time you had available.

That's what she said?

 

Damn, I forgot how good **s* can be! The sand is finally coming back and today was typical winter wear. Not great, but a LOT better than most everywhere else I've surfed recently. Tomorrow and the next day should be sick with the NW subsiding and the SW picking up.

Got a sick sucking in-n-out going right. I haven't been barreled like that for months! Glassy, empty, cloudy, chest-to-head high glory. Fun fun fun. No dropknee today.

 

Saturday was off the stoke meter for me dudes and dudz

Man all these Brussels sprouts and bacon been paying off plus they give my 4/3 a heated suite effect..all natural

LB Crew you should have drove a little south for Sunday leftovers of the DP still a waist to chest bone peeler

 

Chest bone