Saturday waist to chest sets with some bigger sets rolling through. Was in a wet suite for 6 hours, either surfing or crashed out on the beach recovering. Had my best ride since Labor Day. My wife didn't think it was me until I paddled in for a rest... Got to surf with one of my sons, too. It was a good day...
I was going to go out this morning but I had a feeling the tide was going to be too deep so I held off and decided to get my other stick wet and stay in bed. I checked the cams at sunrise and sure enough it was too deep, so i didn't miss anything. I chalked it up to i'm probably not going to surf today being that I had to work. Just before lunch I checked the cams again at low tide and it was looking REALLY fun, glassy peelers with long lines down the beach. I got so stoked I couldn't just sit here and eat lunch so I decided to take an extended lunch threw my wetsuite on and got an hour session in. My shoulder is still hurting from it popping out a couple days ago but it held up just fine. I felt it a couple times and it ached a little, but the cool water soothed the pain nicely. Waves were waist - chest, glassy, and the water was pretty clear with that coke bottle green color. I took out the LB for easier paddling so I didn't over-do-it with my shoulder, which was a wise decision. I got about a dozen solid waves in an hour and the last wave of the session was the largest at around shoulder high, maybe a tad bigger. I decided to end on a positive note and called it a session. I was so stoked I stopped at the corner store on the way home, picked up a 40 of Modelo and crushed that bad boy and went back to work. Feeling good! Shoulder feeling better than when I left. Not bad considering I didn't even think I was going to surf today.
That's actually what I did but the right jetty was sucking me back to shore instead of the rip taking me out. I moved over about 15 yards the third time and got out no problem, it was too late by then though, energy was wasted. Anyone know of any good pics from that day in MoCo? It was really ****ing mackin at whitewash jetty
It was only good at the sandbar where Super Jessee surfed, and anywhere else was a total bust. Whatever fun you thought you had, you didn't, you blew it. Even John agrees, so there's no disputing it.
Got no regrets today. Pulled up to a pretty quiet parking lot at the village bicycle break. Looked pretty good, so I said fvk the high tide and the low bouys and lets do this. Good choice. It was HH+ and glassy when I paddled into the lineup. By the time I was done, it was DOH and still glassy. Sets would sweep through and 1, 2, 3 guys who have the place wired would pick off the waves in order, then waves 4, 5, 6, etc would keep stacking up and you could have your pick. If I wasn't goofy, I would've had the time of my life. As it stood, those rights and big big drops were fun fun fun. As I showered off, I watched nonstop sets start breaking from pipe all the way down to the cove. Sectiony and fast, but reeling if you catch it right. It'll be out-of-control by this afternoon and probaby too big tomorrow morning too. Caught it just right. It's fun to be out in a rapidly-rising swell!
All I can say is SI got it way wrong here today. They are saying it should only be 3+ right now, but it is still well overhead. I saw video today from Buckroe Beach in the Chesapeake Bay and it was even over 3+ feet and clean.
If you had advertisements flashed in your face, they got it right as far as they are concerned. They don't really give a sheit about forecasting surf accurately. It is marketing organization, not a surfing organization. You were delivered to the advertisers via their medium. Sorry, it's true. BTW, I get delivered daily as well......
its 3+ hawaiian, hence - accreaat. chesapeake bay is bombin? daaannggg where my annapolis john johns at?
I escaped the blizzard and have been in Stuart Florida. today was the best day so far....shoulder high and clean. winds straight off @ 5-10. I think I got my longest east coast left ever.....wave ran and ran for 150 yards.
I second CD surfer- did anyone get in in moco? I noticed the wind seems like it was west in the afternoon but I was cleaning out all day and helping neighbors. Think if I had the chance I would have been too tired anyways...
Surfed in Maine today, big and clean. Saw 2 snapped boards. All business. I paddled out and sort of wanted to get my bearings for a bit when a monster right reared up in front of me, and it was like, all right here we go. Biggest wave I've ridden in at least the last year. Rest of the session was fun, but nothing like that first wave. A lot of water moving, so hard to hook into em, but when you did it was pure juice.
Outer Banks was all blown yesterday...I slipped over to Croatan for evening session and caught a few in the head high range. Surfed til dark. It cleaned up pretty good. Today it appears that outer banks still has some size but disorganized.
that's ok. I got out today and it was ok but not great. C+. It felt like a very dead swell but long period.
moco was pumping yesterday,i didn't go out,u know snow....flat tire....lol,not driving to the beach.but I did watch the cams in the afternoon,i was watching the njsurfer cam,i seen some really nice drainers,nobody out,id say 8-10 ft.but ny,rockaway was the spot yesterday,8-12ft and macking.after that jaoquin swell we had a while ago,im starting to think about making the trek up therefor these swells when we got north winds,its offshore for them.i just hate driving through the city
Cap it gets real good up there!! But I agree the driving stinks... Plus having to change outside (I just drive home to my basement to change...) I made it out this morning- the waves I got where fun! But it was deep and only the bigger sets where breaking well. Only a 3 few friends out , can't complain! The bigger sets where head hi. Busted out the new xcel mittens for the first time today- 7mil- my wife got them for me. I haven't had mittens in about 10 yrs and was surprised with how warm they where! Plus NO water got inside. And they didn't get heavy like I remembered they use to.