Old Surfers and Big Waves

If it's big and clean no problem but definitely more picky these days. Worst surf injuries have been on small crappy/mushy days. Go figure? Can't stay out as long so try to make it count. Worst part to me is the first paddle out. I need to get more cardio for sure . There have been a few days after surfing a lot when I knew my body needed rest an I actually didn't paddle out even though it was good. I enjoy surfing and I appreciate it more now than ever.

 

Also, the ab wheel helps to fully extend your arms/torso and engages your abs/chest/shoulder etc to help you with power when you need the burst. Does not replace swimming though... I'm seriously lacking in pool time.

 

I don't do anything crazy to stay in shape. I just stay active and I surf. A lot. Can't speak about 50's as I'm in my 40's, but I got cleaned up twice last Saturday pretty good. It sucked so bad. It doesn't happen as much as it used to which I think is because of the years of surfing. The crusty old dudes know where to be kind of thing. But we all get caught sometimes. I think with age and time in the water we just get used to the beatings.

My name is Luka.

 

im 70 this year and bench 350 and surf 23 foot waves, dont worry i drive the fastest whip on da bloc.

 

what I have noticed is as I got older after a few or even 1 day of bigger surf, I'll get surfed out and need some time to recover. not and issue when your young. Which come to think of it is true for many things.

and for you kids not 40 yet get ready for putting on socks to be kind of a drag.

 

an ab wheel?? clemson you're something else move to sc then become a clemson fan...i mean ffs now ab wheels? whats next jerking off for grabbing the rail strength?

 

Beatings?? What beatings??

 

Talking from being mid sixties here, I can say the real effects begin mid 50's. Unless you're a couch potato, in which case it starts earlier.

Lap swimming helps a lot. It's easy on the joints, is fun, is good for stretching and breathing, totally builds up stamina for surfing.

 

I am 44. As I get older I get pickier in the winter. I run all the time but I am a big guy (always have been). Putting on and taking off winter wetsuits is harder and more tiring than actually surfing! I still get out there but tend to watch yawl on the bigger days. On the big days I am one of the old guys sitting on the beach with coffee that the young fellas make fun of. No regrets. Life is good

 

The older I get, the less I hesitate. But I think I've gotten more conservative, or rather picky, when it comes to surfing waves of consequence. What did Bodhi once say- "Fear causes hesitation, and hesitation will cause your worst fears to come true"
But I agree w/ some of the more seasoned (older) surfers on here that recovery time seems to take longer, and certain sessions suck the juice out of me a lot faster than when I was a young buck.

 

My wife and I eat right and keep active, we take long walks 3-5 miles, 2 to 3 times a week, we also just bought an elliptical, my wife uses it every day but I have yet to jump on it, but I will try I soon. I don't mind surfing big waves but, I'm very picky on the waves I take, as someone said earlier quality not quantity and at my age 55, I have to be more careful, I don't twist and turn like I used to, even though I'm in half way decent shape. I surf to have fun not to get hurt, give me a 2 ft. overhead, a light offshore wind, and a couple good friends......priceless.

 

What Barry... You never get caught inside and take beatings?

P good point on avoidance by virtue of experience, which by default (ocean is in control) will end at some point!

 

The beatings will stop when morale improves.

 

I'm 60 and started surfing only 3 years ago. I don't do big waves.
When there are big waves (in VB?), I'm the guy on the beach with the metal detector or collecting seashells with his wife.
...Good gawd, there are a lot of old farts here!

 

The only thing that I will remember from this thread is that Barry admitted to doing girl push-ups.

 

December 2014, I got caught inside at Tres Palms. Not a severe beating, but when the set cleared, my board shorts were hanging on my leash!!.. If that leash had broken, I would have gotten out onto the beach stark naked. But at least my leash was properly tied!!!

 

I'll be 64 in Feb. , surf every swell , but I'm a little more discriminating about the conditions then I used to be , meaning that if it's big and fun , and tubing I'm on it , but if it's sucking out and dredging I'll watch the carnage until it mellows a bit , I workout at the gym , strength training , at home pilates and abs and inverted push ups ( feet up on a stability ball and using the PERFECT PUSH UP , 5 sets of 20 reps with ab work between sets. Kayaking , inline skating , great for legs , core and keeping your balance sharp, biking and of course surfing .The key is to stay in shape and stay active . Even surfed Hanalia Bay last Jan. DOH plus .Of course I have the usual aches and pains associated with aging but my workout routines really help keep me in the game .

 

Hanalei or Honolua bay? Either way I'm sure you were stoked!

 

I was surfing solid DOH in Baja last month a couple of days in a row with a guy that was (by his own admission) "past 70". And he was catching more waves than just about anyone. Granted it was his local but I had only one thought: respect dude.