what would u do?

would've gone left

 

O.H. in Montauk put me in the rocks near the lighthouse once. Close to the spot where my avatar pic is but much bigger. broke my board and leashe then got dragged through like 50 yards or so of rocks by the river like current. In my mind I was like, this is it goodbye cruel world. I got washed into a deep spot where the current was not as bad and swam to shore luckily. My wetsuite was not suite after that and the session was over like it or not it was Swiss cheese but it took the brunt of it, I only had minor scratches.

 

I've had a few bad experiences with jetties over the years and thankfully came out unscathed each time except for my pride and my boards. Worst one was paddling out on a real big day and getting caught by a set as I was about to paddle around a jetty. The first wave took me sideways. When the second one came it sucked the water out and I found myself drydocked on top of the end of the jetty with the lip of a big wave about to explode on me and nowhere to go. All I could do was ride it out. I was surprised to emerge on the other side without a scratch. Somehow the water created a cushion for me.

 

Absolutely shatt myself!

 

I'd rather do that,

than this...

 

"what would u do?"

I would remain calm and go with the flow...he seemed to be doing just that...when your in trouble, stay calm.

I never got washed up on the stones but I had a few very big days in my younger years out by myself in true DOH+ surf, no bottom to be found and was getting pummeled...i did everything possible from freakin out...Everytime I took one on the nogging, kept telling myself to go with it and relax.

 

Easy I wouldn't toe into a wave will definitely a crappy wave with Rocks in front of it.

 

Ah I've had my fare share of getting washed over the rocks

Hey IRL I saw Lil Ricky get washed over the rocks at 16th Ave Belmar zones when we were paddling back out

He recovered with mucho macho finesse

Paddled back out and got barreled on the next "liner" that rolled through

 

toe ins