who here has been surfing this week?

Finally got out of my rusty cage and went to my local as the tide and the sun were dropping. Typical waist to chest south east wind choppe that precedes another cold front that will bring a mother swell on Super Sunday. Only one other guy out when I paddled out, another bud was on the beach with his fishing pole and decided to ditch the pole for his fish, so there were three of us out trading peaks and getting a few soft sections and connecting a few lined up rights. The lefts were short and steep. Water has warmed up a bit with the south flow. Air too. Life is goode!

 

who else in NJ got beat up yesterday? It wasn't big but it was violent.

Props to the guy In AP yesterday around 12 that had a great get out wave.. big vertical snap followed by an air reverse. He was like "take that."

 

Got out yesterday. Arrived at one of my "gotos" and nice lines were rolling in -- there were about 5 buoys already in. It was rather balmy in the low 50's, light drizzling rain. After catching a few waves, the wind unexpectedly picked up and switched from offshore to north, which killed it -- it became disorganized and with a cross chop from the north. I was able to harness a random lump to get a ride in. I should've got on it earlier, before the death knell of the north wind, but still, as always, it was good to get wet after being out a few weeks due to travel, family obligations, and an nasty cold.

 

Big sets this AM.
Got one of the bigger and def longest waves at this spot in LJ. Lots of water & hard to negotiate (5.2' high @ 6:40) but it kept the size throughout the whole wave and the sections kept connecting all the way from the peak to the shore line. Great start to Friday!

 

went out in long branch really early. saw a little violence but got some super fun rights too. suprisingly it was just me and a few birds for over 2 hours at a spot that usually has a pack of (what i assume to be) monmouth university kids

 

Got out around 3 and surfed alone for almost 2 hours before another dude came out up the beach. Between the flat grey light and the high tide it was really shifty and funky and hard to pinpoint the spot to get to to get the peak. Def had some punch... hollow and fast... and glassy. Fun thing was... every once in a while you'd get a bomb and it would be an overhead drop. Not that the swell was overhead... far from it. But just the way an occasional set wave would break would bounce up and peak about a foot overhead.

Some really beautiful, green glassy waves, though.

 

Fun day today with a f-load of dolphins. One breached out the back of a wave 10 feet away from me on the paddle out. Kewl.

Not as big as I expected, HH with OH+ sets, but I hung inside the crowd at the town break and just picked off the shapely ones. Easy to pick them off. The sets were busy, shifty, and sectiony. Lost a contact when I didn't make a section, rinsed it in seawater and stuck it back in. Hope I don't get eyeball rot from all the homeless poop in the water. Gross.

Fun stuff but too effing cold for a 3/2 with no hood. I'm still chilly. Probably would've done better down south, but got more pre work water time at my home break.

 

surfed a couple of hours yest in north moco. only two people out. not real clean but it was consistent waist to chest with some random head high sets. nice and shallow def had a punch

 

This afternoon - my buddy at work and I called it a week a bit early and hit up OCMD just as the sun came out and offshores got right. Surfed a couple hours of super fun, got out and shot a couple pics of my buddy stoking on the lefts. First two are him getting a nice turn, and the last is just to show the size of a set wave...decent.

 

Glad to see you scoring, Scobes...I'm guessing that you're surfing one of those reefs north of Windansea and south of Boomers?

Dude, I wish we had a high of 5.2 up here. Pretty much every 2 week cycle sees highs of almost 11 feet, dropping to -.04 feet. Psycho $hit to get wired for sure...especially surfing inside the Harbor when the current is like a river. Staying in the peak is almost impossible most of the time.

 

Got out late yesterday afternoon off Dam Neck. About shoulder high, somewhat clean, but a lot of closeouts.

 

South of windan. Need to stay close to home on days before work.
Took the groveler out this AM in inconsistent 3-4'. So much fun!

 

Had an old school beat down yesterday. Bigger than Jonas swell, and I just kept getting caught in the wrong spot, caught inside, then cleaned-up just as I was about to get out. Didn't get a single wave, but I also didn't drown, so that was good.

Swell dropped *significantly* overnight, but I was able to find a wedgy clean break today for my redemption session. I showed no mercy.

Still waiting for the elements to come together on one of these big swells for an epic session, so far about all you can say is that it was big.

 

Hit it again this afternoon off Dam Neck, but swell had subsided quite a bit compared to yesterday. The only fool out there. Cold front coming through tonight.

 

Sooooo, yesterday afternoon went down to the beach for a surf with my longboard; waves were shoulder to head. Went back home, got a mid-size board (G&S Magic RP), returned and surfed 2 hrs all by myself, one nice glassy wave after another. Today?? Am pooped and will work on the "honey-do-list"........

 

waded through some closeouts to catch a few small glassy barrels yesterday in north moco nice day, sun came out, very few takers overall a good mellow day

 

got a few very fun ones in west palm beach and Jupiter last week. There was a kid out in Jupiter with a hooded suit on. No lie. Water was 74 and air was mid 60's. I guess if he wanted to get waves up in the northeast during the winter he'd have to wear 8 (eight) 6 mil suits in ascending size order. Not sure he could paddle then, though... hmmmmm.

 

Maybe his mommie made him do it??

 

Two fun days.
Yesterday I finally let Jones take the wheel and drive me into the water if there was anything worth riding. Found some nice little CH nuggets reeling in on a new sandbar tucked away behind a seawall. Had to swim around part of the wall to get there. Had to wait for low(er) tide for it to work. Was worth it, though. Clear blue water, nobody else out, and consistent little pockets picking up and slinging me from the rocky point to the little burped-up beach. Fun. Won't be there in a few weeks, days maybe, with the way the sand is moving around.

This morning **r**d was pumping. Long lulls and BIG sets. Well OH, with fog rolling in and out to catch you unawares. Spent more time chasing around than riding, but caught quite a few good ones. Not epic, but pretty darn fun. A bit of crowd, but it was breaking all over the place--inside, outside, left, right--that there really wasn't any waiting.

 

Got out twice Saturday. In the AM trashy shore pound but caught a couple. At dusk, an hour after low tide, wind stopped, and some great knee to waist sets were rolling in. Got suited up and had the whole ocean and beach to myself until dark. Had a nice, local micro-brew beer buzz going and it was suite! 56 months in a row now with at least one day of surfing. I hope I never have to miss a month.