I was smackin da lip all weekend long brah, on 6ft and 6'4" short borts, now get back to the kiddie pool where you belong.
Took that as I left today. Guy on the outer wave is standing. There were sets bigger than that. My presence on here is shoddy as of late. Message if you want more details Oh yeah...it was bigger yesterday
Wise move kiddo. It is a suite pic though. A classic Belmar-stylee 23-fotter. The Shred would be envious. So glad I came up to the secret inlet state park on North Hutchison Island today. Really clean long period liners. So easy to paddle out and paddle into. I had so many fun rides and felt really good aboot my surfing. My first wave was worth the four hour round trip, the dozens that followed were gravy. Even the closeouts (slow surfer) were fun. And, of course, it's always great to see Betty againe. Needless I say more. Just a wonderful day. I'll be back soon. I only had one little problem. Imagine my horror when I realized I hadn't yet picked up any 2016 model year bortshorts! The surf shoppe would not open for hours so I had no choice but to don last season's fashionne! How embrassing, everybody was staring at me I could tell! I won't commit that faux pas againe. Nuh-uh. I've already ordered some suite Thaddeus O'Neil Ultra-Suede Bortshorts. Life is good and I like that all the time as well.
All I can say is hot damn this past weekend was fun! Head high to overhead perfection first couple days and then the clean up yesterday was f'ing clean and playful, and still some size on the sets coming through. Got some memorable waves for sure, I think i'll be good for at least 24 - 48hrs...
Did anybody else surf this last swell? I'm interested to see what you're experiences were like, I'm kinda at a loss for words. Is this what being surfed out feels like? Or am I just buzzed from all the waves?
Well, I guess i'm not surfed out, because I'm not tired, I'm ready for more. Wish every day was that good.
Yeah, maybe I'm not really surfed out though I am a bit tired. I could easily do another day like yesterday. Once I get out there most of my normal aches and pains disappear. The healing power of good surf.
Office work and surfing don't mix. To any of the other donkeys grinding it out at a desk 10 hours a day, forget about surfing. Your body is gonna pay over time for all the damage you've done to yourself sitting like a f****ing crustacean. It's a f***ed-up way of life that humans are not supposed to endure. Quit while you can. Work upright, work outdoors, do something where you MOVE all day. Otherwise, you will wind up basically crippled.
Crazy run of consistent waves continued today. chest high lefts just running down the sandbars, winds straight offshore, stiff but straight off. From around 5:00 this afternoon in Maryland: