who here has been surfing this week?

Who you Brah???? Hahaha yesterday was super fun . Seriously, I don't know you! We're you the guy on the light blue funboard?

 

Gettin' old, sparkus. And since when is a G-Shock fancy? (Ahhh shiiites it wasn't me jk)

Feel better.

 

Waves haven't been epic past few days or anything but they sure have been fun! At the right spot, with the right tide and wind, there have been some waist - chest rides. At the wrong spot or tide, it's been flat or barely rideable. Luckily, been hitting it at the right time and getting my wave count up. Spring has been good so far, but i'm itching for another ground swell. Come to Poppa....

 

This afternoon should be fun, but the crowds will be brutal due to the holiday break. Time to break out the bumper boat! Haha

 

I was living there during the last major El Nino and recall it was quite good....and less crowded, late season. I use to love going on smaller days to the beach park and surf the sandbar. It would get like outer banks style and be real fun little nuggets. I have not surfed there my last two trips out there. As for the "other" spot, depending on the type of crowd, that place can be very rewarding (or NOT!).

 

I blew off work today and met my buddy right at sunrise. Warm tropical air and almost warm enough ocean were both a delight. They were semi clean thigh high, some smaller, some a tad larger, coming in regularly and the incoming tide gave some of them a very nice snap. It was a day to just cruise, drink in the specialness of it all. Just those smooth floaty long lefts.

 

Are you a therapist? I felt like I was there reading this! Sounds lovely...

 

Good stuff, Betty. Everybody needs to skip out on work and surf from time to time. If the forecast stays good we'll probably be up there on Saturday.

 

Yeah it was fun shoulder high a-frame barrels littered all over north monmouth co. I surfed from 2-dark so spent.

 

Dammit, I hate all of you! Ha. I fell like I haven't been out in so long!

 

Finally got out after hurting my back...fun clean waist to chest, only surfed an hour...didn't want to push it and just went down the line. Spent more time paddling. Regardless, fun.

 

Queen Betty ditching work for surf. That's awesome.

 

Another small but fun session on the incoming tide before sunset. Can't remember the last day I didn't surf, I can get use to this...

 

I heard afternoon was fun but wind sucked from 5 on.

 

We found wind protection behind some big houses perched on a tall bulkheads. Wind was an issue but the inside offered throaty barrels. Well worth it!

 

Monday bumped into something in the water, did the hands and feet up thing for a few. Looked over at another dude who gave me the WTF look. Don't know what or even if it was alive but did surprise me. Hour later and most were out the water and pods of dolphins came by within 10'. Sunny, waist high and 64 degree water. Life is goode.

 

Hey Bradley I was up that way yesterday before the winds picked up

Dudes, dudettes, barney's, simpletons and kooks I went STANDUP surfing yesterday...totally

Then I tried to skate LB park afterwards but the wind was killer...I paged Doug for some flakka but he never came through

Thanks Doug...Lay off the whale jizz dude

 

Yeah getting old is beat, but better than the alternative.

Speaking of offshores, yesterday I worked all day, by late afternoon the offshore were just RIPPING. Solid 20 with gusts, bright sun and the winds were straight off. The kind of afternoon that looks great from the beach and usually doesn't surf very good. Drove around with a buddy who had already gotten out of the water at one spot saying it was pretty much over. It looked pretty beat down where he was. I was determined to surf, but felt like I was just wasting time and gas looking around, especially because with the offshores and late low tide. Check two spots....clean but the offshores were making the waves look like they were breaking in a foot of water. Third place we checked looked marginally better...still shallow but much peakier and more groomed looking..maybe stomach to chest on the peak.

Turned out to be an amazing late afternoon sesh...3 foot+ a-frame peaks with neat little tapered shoulders all lit up with bright gold sun and spray just fanning back off the peaks. Every wave had a right and left, just peeling a-frames, short period nuggets. The kind of beachies where you drop in angled, pump to get out on the little open face, and either kick out over a pitching lip, or smack it and end up landing it on a knee deep sandbar just standing there amazed that such a fun wave could end up in such shallow water. After a while I wanted to shoot pics from the water so bad, but was the last guy in the water...left with a big grin, but no documentation of the beauty.

to sum it up -

 

^^ Tremendous. Just great reading that description.

Been a long winter of not enough surf due to work / driving the death desk. Long & the short of it is that i can't wait to get back out to the-place-that-shall-not-be-named, just kickin' it where the next human is 200 yds away, the sun is shining, the waves are peeling, the wind is less than 5 & offshore & the cooler has good things packed. Nothing better.

 

First south swell of the summer is building in. My home break was firing today! Shoulder-to-head high with light winds and OH bomb sets. The sandbar has one sick corner right now and there's a ton of sand, so no climbing over sharp rox. Sunny and warm, the water is clear and blue but April cold.

Nice crossed-up lines were rolling in with A-frame peaks and little barrels. Then a set would hit the sandbar and jack up in a monster barrel. Makeable! Saw some crazy deep tubes, and got a good one, myself. Dropped an outside peak, looked down the line and saw it bending to throw. Hit the gas and powered into that section as it hit the sandbar and jacked. Got a beaut of an OH shack and came out clean with the spray whuff. That put a smile on my face.

Lucked into a nice long speedy right at the end that carried me clear of the seawall and dropped me off right at the edge of the sand. Today was a good day, and tomorrow should be bigger!