So with my bad foot and lack of quality waves, I've been getting laid more often than getting pitted. And I'm married. So there is a swell coming soon, and if my car doesn't crap out on me (like the last clean swell) and if fambily can wait a damn minute, maybe daddy can get some! So here is a bit of what makes me swoon over surf poon... Slick shiny glistening warm wet pitching frothing waves of wonder... that I can slide on and smack the lip and carve a backside figure s and do a little tail free freefall into a glorious barrell... ok I'm done for now. Whew!
Do NOT complain!!! Do NOT complain!! that is a good thing. Nay, a great thing. Enjoy it--there will be waves when you return.
