http://www.27east.com/news/article.cfm/Montauk/249190/Montauk-Coast-Guard-commander-permanently-removed-from-duty-after-investigation
I took this shot on the heaviest day I've encountered in over 30 years in the water. Black Friday Swell. Hatteras Lighthouse. My shot below doesn't do it justice. Matt Lusk got some pictures published from this day. It was the closest thing you will see to a chocolate milk version of big Cloudbreak you will ever see on the East Coast. This was kiss the sand when you come in kind of big. That whole week I was down there it never went below 2-feet overhead.
Found one of Matt Lusk's shots from that day. Just scary **** unloading in chest deep water. First time I ever felt too old for this sheet. It wasn't the height of the waves this day as I'd been out in waves as big or bigger in Puerto Rico. It was the way these things were ledging and then unloading on the sandbar. Fisher Heverly and Brett Barley were charging. Everyone else was prettymuch fighting the current and praying to make it in safely.
theres a great vid on vimeo.com the black Friday swell.i wasn't in the ob that day,or any day lol,but yea it was big
Found the picture I was looking for on Matt Lusk's facebook. It was that good. Pretty sure this is Jesse Hines in the tube.
That kid's name is MacNamara... I ran a surf camp with him for a few years, then he moved of to Hawaii.