No way, dude... the same thing happened to me! This morning I have half a Kirk Douglas chin on one side. Barry... That's it... Wayne Lynch! Great board...
The name or game of this "swell event" was the early bird gets the worm Scored some real fun ones Saturday morning on the long buried or barrier island Winds killed it by 9ish in the am....same deal Sunday I really should of stuck it to the pizza man boss yesterday and ditched my dough duties
I "thought or fought" aboot going this mornin' LB Crewzy but I decided to be responsible I'm starting to wonder if I'm even a real surfer anymore...real surfers ain't got no responsibilities
Yesterday evening. OC NJ. Head high. Crowded. Wishing the Surfline Cam would explode so the inland sheep would go surf elsewhere.
Pulled the old "forgot I had a dentist appointment" yesterday... FIHADA as some call it... Checked sandbridge (which is actually a really nice drive from my house, stoked to make that trip over the summer) which wasnt really working and headed up to croatan. Quick little surf, but managed to fit in a 2 or 3 good ones and lots of beatings. It was awesome for my first time out in a while. Went and grilled some chicken, brats, onions, peppers, asparagus, mushrooms, and knocked back a few coronas. Best day ive had in a while. Jets were a little loud.
They don't? Really? Sh!t. Good one. Did something similar yesterday afternoon. Got at it at low to incoming with light winds. This was a mellow swell for around here. Good size just kinda soft. I think the swell was just peeking into our window. Was long boarding again and spent some time on the tip of my new LB. Love it when you start clicking with a board. No hood needed even punching through waves and light gloves. Then shrimp and asparagus on the grill and an ice cream sandwich.
Surfed a fun lil wave this AM. Probably about 7 guys out, but they were all sitting too wide from the take off zone. I sat inside and south a bit and picked off about 20 perfect chest high waves. Tide was filling in which made the end of the session slow, but yeah... It was a good day in CA!
You are NOT a real surfer. You have never been. You are a boogie boarder - you shouldn't be allowed to be on this site. Go away.
Got out this morning - super fun and clean and warming up! Shorter rides- but fun and refreshing! Hey Ryan! Did you surf this morning?? Fairly certain you passed me as I was getting out of the water and loading my longboard into the back of my pickup ... Tried to wave you down -driving white car? Where did you end up paddeling out??
got away with using my 4-3 in 44 degree water Sunday! 2hrs, np! clean 3'-4' and sunny! that sun was so motivating. flashbomb plus lives up to the specs! just thought id share that!
Super fun waves in KDH today. Chest-head high, offshores, barrels and fun rippable waves from 730-430. My boss is gonna hate me but I'm glad I took off a second day in a row. Hope y'all scored
Don't think my 4/3 has had time to fully dry in the last 10 days or so.... feels good to shed some suite.
Went out in a 4/3 no booties no gloves no problems. Booties are my crux. i feel like this lil kittie with them on... [video=youtube;4eTA4SJ7aos]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4eTA4SJ7aos[/video]