who here has been surfing this week?

You know who went surfing today? Chavez, that's who.

 

In the ocean, or on the computer??

 

Luv it when that happens. Town was actually much better than it looked. Found some fun ones on dropping tide. Actually wore the 3mil for the first time this spring - was fine.

 

After reading your posts from yesterday I regretted not going so I goed before I knowed today. Yeah, it wasn't that big but my wave count was ridiculous. Take what you can get. Stayed until two when it died with the low tide. Gorgeous day. Crystal clear water just the right temp to moderate the ~90 degree air. Had a blast.

Here's some pics of Betty's suite boarte:





It's beautiful. My pics don't do it justice.

BTW, that's Betty's shadow in the second pic so now you all know what she looks like

 

Nice longboard! I like the pin tail!!

 

Thank Youe! Maybe my back up name should be The Shadowe.

 

Sweet new board Betty!

 

Nice boarde betty!!

I got in the water yesterday morning at 8:00 and didn't get out until about 11:00, a buddy showed up, so I got back in. Got back out about 12:30 and fished for about half an hour. Then go back in the water for another hour until my legs finally started cramping and arms felt like wet noodles. It was def not an epic day, but there were waves and it was fun. Then went home and took a 2 hour nap. HA

 

Surfed twice yesterday, only knee - thigh but some were really fun and long rides to the sand, literally dismounting on the sand or and inch or two of water on a few, I was kicking out on a LB and grabbing the board with one hand and catching it before it lands on the ground lol, probably shouldn't cut it that close but no damage to my board so all good.

 

Thanks cdog you da man!

 

Nice long session yesterday at my local... stiff today, but it was worth it. Glassy lines in the waist to chest range... shoulder high on set. Best session yet on the new stick... but still trying to figure out the best fin setup.

 

Monday AM- 4-6 ft faces; glassy; surfed 2 hours and now I am very pooped.
But worth every minute of it!!
The size of the swell surprised me; the period of 11 seconds even more. Waves had juice.

 

Betty looks hot!!!

 

Can't even get too into detail because i am still so stoked on the sesh i just had. Easily bigger and cleaner than yesterday. Almost didnt go to this spot cause of the intimidating crowd and wave size but i am so glad i did. Looking forward to after school now hopefully still fun by then

 

This is gold! HAHAHA

 

Hey that's an idea!

 

paddled out yesterday afternoon for the first time in 6-8 weeks bc of family stuff, went to a local spot and scored it alone... first wave lined up so good - got into it then got smoked trying to come out. it shook the rust right off, and lost an earplug, but you gotta love starting a session like that. there were some great sets every now and then, and fun rides until the tide filled in and killed it.

Got some more fun ones Monday AM - super stoked, best way to start the week!

 

You said it, brother... I only got one barrel yesterday... on the drop of a set wave. Super hollow for it's size. The bigger sets were a bit of a wait in between, but some really fun surprises when they rolled through...