who here has been surfing this week?

the sand better up there yet? Yea im on it man. Got some reef breaks I plan on checking out a half hour north if it gets big.

 

Yeah, the beach and Corner are back to normal pretty much. The other spot? Not so much. It's mellowed out quite a bit so I expect the sand to settle a bit more. We shall see.

Got skunked at Short Sands and Seaside last week though. Typical. Came home and the other spot was surfable.

I think my surf exploration career is done, I'm over it.

 

Little bit of a surprise bump out there today, going to go surf some C & D grade uncrowded lonely waves

 

Small, mushy, and warm today. I'll take it all summer cause I love the fish I have!

 

Last weekend was awesome here in JAX. Great form mid size clean ones all weekend long. I'm surfing bud light now. Wait I should put that in the 'what you sipping on' tread

 

Dude i have seen video and photographic evidence of ocean shores doing a meagar (albeit gnarly) lefthand pipeline impression and of the point you have always been wonderin about (in wash not oregon, 10 min drive from ya) fireing courtesy of a wandering washingtonian that i surfed with at the river mouth down here. Get the van movin, and don't sell your lot!

 

do you know a dude named brian thats now a travelling nurse in hawaii but grew up in jax?

 

well it technically happened after the official inspection, so good on him for timing and good on our district for covering it up via paperwork.

But they really ****ed us on our boot stipend this year, a law was passed last year by congress or some **** that gave every wildland firefighter $300 every 3 years for boots. I checked with my supervisor in advanced (my supervisor left this week for a new district) and bought a pair of lowa's (decent backpacking and soft fire boots) for just under 300 only to find out that our shisty ass brass wouldn't honor the stipend due to "budget cuts". Talk about bull****. Im tired of them ****ing over the seasonals that will die expendably, without even a chance for health insurance or retirement benefits. Just give me my dam boots mother ****ers.

but the waves have been super fun here recently, overhead, relatively clean and a few barrels/good air sections to be had.

 

Bonnie is still delivering here. Clean, sometimes glassy, knee to thigh highs, long interval, at dawn there were also waist high sets, just superfun cruising, water 82... Some had some punch especially until the tide went down.

DPSUP, was it fun up your way? Valhalla was out there catching fun rides too. Nice to see him as always!

 

Perfect!

 

Yeah Betty, it was really fun yesterday afternoon and today, waist to chest at an empty sandbar I had all to myself for 2-3hrs each session. So many good rides, too many to count!

 

Another round early tomorrow!

 

Hopefully there's enough energy left, fingers crossed

 

What a superb day Saturday was! My surfing buddy hasn't had the chance to surf much lately and I've been wanting to get him upcoast for some time. Rolled the dice and headed up on a less than stellar forecast, ankle-knee. Go before you know. Got there early, even before Betty. We were greeted by knee-waist glassy waves breaking well even with the high tide. Much better than expected.

The waves weren't epic but the trade swell mixing with the long period Bonnie pulse created many interesting peaks and long rides. Not too crowded either. By late morning there were some chest high sets. We spent six hours having ridiculous fun. I surfed my caulk off and my buddy surfed his asshole off like a mad man. As it got to low tide the swell faded and so did we. We decided to call it a day and grab a last wave in. Moments later a peak lifted in front of us and we rode it in together racing down the line all the way to the sand. Shared some big 'Fock yeah!' smiles and a high five to end the day! Waxy libations for the ride home. Suite!

The day could hardly have turned out better. While I had a great time surfing, I took greater pleasure in how much fun my surf starved friend had. Sure, the waves were C or D grade at best. IDGAF. I had a blast surfing with my buddy and he did too.

Life is good. I feel sorry for people that don't surf.

 

stayed clean all afternoon yesterday in MD. Some fun little nugs coming in mid afternoon.

 

Yesterday, Saturday, paddled my 2 miles again, stopping at different peaks along the way to catch a couple of waves, then paddle back out and resume paddling.
And yes, my shoulders are sore as hell this morning, but it is a good sore, if youz know what I mean....did me body some good, shed some rust off of ye old skeleton!!

 

Fatboys exercising?

 

Great write up Val!

The Betties hit it again today, and it was even more fun than yesterday. Although there was more wind, SE, so the water wasn't so clean and glassy, we all agreed that it was somehow better! Maybe because we had 2 hours before the tide made it deepni dunno,

I scored three waist high keeper waves, two witnessed and woohooed by s guy I respect. They still had punch, rolled nicely, still longish interval-- am still on those waves.

It was fun to see how even great surfers can totally wipeout on a waist high day.

Life is good

 

Hollywood doesn't hire fatboys to write their surf scripts.