miss that place... and one just a touch west of it right around either side of low tide. short rides but so fun
Sometimes ish just works out! Blew off work to catch some head high clean surf this morning. Super fun. Get into work around 1:00 and start calling peeps thinking they'd be pissed. Every body said it worked out better for them. I like to think maybe it was karma.
Glad someone is getting some action. I can't get out until Sunday and the forecast says it will be flat. I have no hope of any other sort of action either. Sucks to be me.
I was in the water at 5am for dawn patrol yesterday. Waves were real peaky and it hadn't cleaned up enough yet; in the waist-chest range. Definitely got better through the morning and early afternoon as I sat at my desk and watched. The summer pattern of calm/offshore winds early morning and onshores by noon hasn't kicked in here yet and it's throwing me off.
I got into some clean barely knee high SE liners for an hour last night. Not even D grade but forecasts aren't showing much ahead so I'll take what I can get. Shiploads of little peelers all to myself. Didn't surf my caulk off but it was fun and certainly better than not surfing. The coolest thing, though, was the group of birds that showed up, aboot a dozen Roseate Spoonbills. I rarely see them outside of a bird sanctuary or the Everglades. But I've never before seen them on the beach or even in this general area. There's always something new if you take the time to observe and appreciate.
Just got back from an early dawn paddle and surf session on me longboard. 2 hours in the drink, all by my lonesome, except for the strippers breaking water after baitfish, and ye ol' Atlantic terns diving into the foray!!
Yesterday after Colin passed, it was above average in Northeast Florida. Clean chest-head high peaks and very rippable. Stayed offshore pretty much all day. Good way to kick off June, so here's to hoping for more of these systems that generate swell with minimal property damage
Monday was probably the best of Collin for Western Florida. We saw some pockets of sideshore/offshore winds where it was really firing, but it didn't last long enough. Either way, score some super-long and quick lefts in clearwater. Waves were breaking off the jetty like a point-break and having some kind of wedge effect. Best waves I caught were no more than stomach high, but they had so much power and direction you could ride em 30 yards down the beach.
Weak clean lines coming in as the sun came up this morning. I opted for the 8' Haut (Epoxy) for some paddle exercise and ended up catching some long rights on it in the Waist high range. Every 10 minutes a two wave set would come in and set up pretty good! So, many many moons ago, I bought a Classic Ripcurl Springsuite. Apparently it saw it's last moon today because when I was changing after my sesh, I realized there was a nice hole along the seem on the arse of the suite. I thought I felt a draft out there....
This was last week. Not all photos are me, obviously. This week is totally flat. Next week is good again.
Colin delivered on the Delmarva this morning. Two sessions in some pretty pristine conditions. You waited for a set wave, it reeled off for 75 yards. In between sets...not much going on. The water looked tropical, but was probably more like mid 60s.