Distracted

I've seen that video before, pretty cool.

 

Cool video.

Some things never change....ahead of its time.

 

that is cool man....I love nostalgia.

I went to a wedding up near Dewey and there was a solid chest high swell and it was miles of dumping on the beach and no sandbars. Beach replenishment I guess. I was there for two days with swell and could not find a sandbar. I am sure there are "spots" but it was surprising to see it just draining on the shorepound. The bodysurfing was fun though!

 

No waves in Dewey, just drinkin. Keybox is usually angled pretty steep as well. Just south of Dewey is a place called Towers, it used to break nice, then replenishment F'd it up. I did get a fun day out there last winter. Here is a pic of a buddy of mine tucked in at Towers

 

Love watching these old videos. Gives me some insight into my own style or lack of style depending on who is judging. These were the surfers i saw and thought were really good so i copied what I saw. Just as I reached that level in the late 70s into the eighties the likes of Kelly slater were just showing up and making that look like crap and I had to struggle to not look like a total kook. All these years later that foundation both improves my surfing and holds it back in different areas. I told my son that if I could time warp back to those days at my current level I would be the best surfer in town. Nowadays compared to the current skill level Im just an old guy who surfs.

 

Pure awesomeness. Glad I experienced what I did as a kid, in terms of the 'state of surfing'...but I'd literally kill to have lived back then.

Found an old vid of my haunts one time, man it was special.

 

man, idk how they were out there without techno butter wetsuites.

 

^they look nice im not paying 500$ though.

 

Not sure how old you are zippy but I feel similar (I'm 43). Racing across a section and doing a big backside floaty isn't "cool" anymore...I definitely remember a decade or so ago that I was not "keeping up". So, it's power turns and barrels for this cat. Occasionally getting some tale release and/or a little front side air but I will never be able to do what the kids are doing these days. Honestly, all the guys I see my age are the same way...it's all in the era in which we develop I suppose. Would not change it though. Surfing from late 70s to date has been a cool ride!!!!

 

There were also no moving footage of good surfers to watch, well other than a surf flick shown at a VFW twice a year. Those guys were all we had to emmulate. I cant tell you how hard it was to figure out how to do a genuine lip bash from looking at a still shot in a surf mag, lol.

 

Looks fun

 

Isn't that that super sharky wave in Maui? Still, looks fun as #eatmyfuk

 

I like this and agree

 

Same hear except for the front side airs. I was 11 in 1974 and that's the stylee I imitated. In the 80s I developed more power with faster boards. Loved watching guys like Potz, John Boy Gomes, Sunny, etc. I really love and respect watching each generation push it even though I've kinda peaked from a progression stand point. I'm VERY happy with where I'm at and what I can do on a wave. The only thing that bothers me about younger guys is sometimes it seems like they are trying too hard. Angry look, brows all furrowed. No flow. No relaxation. That's just some guys. Lots of others seem to have the flow and incredible ability. And hey, it's their time now.

 

I surfed there 2012 only time ever. It's a freaky paddle out. No white water, just paddling across the Harbor until you get to the reef. When the big 15'+ NW swells are hitting, that place breaks. The day I surfed was almost all lefts. It actually smells fishy and fuelie. You would love the place b/c of the double ups for da sponge!!! Maalaea Harbor may be where you are thinking which is super sharky.

 

Those double ups looked fkn tastey!

 

Right on Chavez...

Hey BWM thanks for starting a cool surfing thread on a surfing site.