Distracted

eatinfks all day.

 

and a mere, six years later came the twins and three after, came the triplets, quads.
Everybody was ready to cut loose in 74.
The 70's was a ground breaking decade in experimentation. I feel fortunate and grateful to
have survived and enjoyed the experience and progressing in those years meant doing it on a 6'0 single fin.
Many idea makers continue to progress this art of surfing; even the film makers get better.
It's incredible what some of you guys are doing in, on or out of these waves, these days!


.KUDOsSurfers!

 

Really, really cool. Everything about the original vid was awesome. The only thing that sucked in the 70's was the quality of the weed.

How about that drive through? Far out. And the microbus.... green too.... damn that's a ride.

 

i bet the beaches were a lot cooler back in the 70s...

 

i bet theyre cooler in decemburrrr

 

Wow... brings back memories of my childhood, surfing with all the hippies on those same old single fins in CM. Even my memories are super 8 quality these days! I remember my first new board was a fish when they first came over to the East Coast. I was at an age when my surfing was evolving AS board design was evolving. That fish took my surfing to a whole other level. Then when thrusters came on the scene, another big jump. Then it got crazy with first generation quads (which sucked... kinda), channel bottoms, whacky experimental fins... what a great time to be young and curious. That's when I started building boards, too... which fed my curiosity even more, and really began to shape who I am as a surfer. I wasn't even out of high school yet.

Edit: Here's a good expression of what I'm talking aboot:

[video]http://www.grindtv.com/surf/new-movie-traces-50-year-history-fish-surfboard-design/#HVHmC02B5YKYiog5.97[/video]

 

"memories are super 8 quality"...lol, that is funny b/c it's true. Thinking back to the good'ole days does get a bit grainy.

For much of my gromhood, I only could afford to have one board at a time and did not get to experiment much until I got older. I think I am more inclined to try different shapes now more than ever. Not sure if that is out of necessity (the aging process), evolution (more experience), or both. Still having fun though.