Yesterday was crap at lunch, but warm enough to go without the wetsuit, so I went. Dawn patrol today rocked! A little crowd, but solid CH-HH glassy barrels all over the beach. It was a quality over quantity day, with some good outsiders offering up great rides. Broke my leash and had to chase my board in a couple of times until I developed the propre death grip. Last wave was my wave of the day. Nice clean outside peak with a mirror-glass rampy shoulder. Got a quick barrel, came out, then cutbacks and rebounds off the foam ball all the way to the beach. Nice!
Got out for a couple of hours around mid-tide. Some set nice waves, waist-chest were rolling through, mostly lefts where I was -- forcing me to improve my backside, but produced nice long rides. There was a window between 9-10 am when it seemed the size and consistency picked up, a couple of larger waves came in, and some shoulder high waves, mostly lefts and a right.. maybe bigger (don't want to offend anyone ). The wind was light and offshore, but did pick up and turn a little more side shore (more South) towards the end of the sesh. Waves died down to knee/thigh .. might have been the outgoing tide. No crowds, just 3 or 4 other surfers out (at this spot, although I could see a few others way down the beach on another set of peaks), and at one point only had two of us on one of the peaks. Not spectacular, but good/clean, and considering how flat it has been this summer, very fun.
me too. I was down the beach from where I parked and I was walking back after sesh and got attacked. I was running down the beach then jumping in every 20 yards. Worst black fly invasion I have ever seen.
Mellow AM sesh before work with the longboard today. Thigh high and clean. Dolphins and pelicans for company.
Beautiful evening north shore MA. Too many people of course but the water is still warm enough to wear board shorts and a rash guard so that was a plus. Waves were better than not surfing but not great.
Waist high sesh in Belmar tonight. Outgoing tide kinda sucked and lots of close outs. But there were waves and the wind was off shore. Really glad I brought the log, as I could get in early for a longer ride. I love the log but I just wish I could shortboard on the grov. I feel as if Belmar's bottom contours go from shallow to steep and deep too quickly. It's not that gradual slope like in AC/OC, help?
Had a nice two hour session in Sea Girt on Thursday afternoon. Was a really good choice over the Inlet in Manasquan, where there seemed to be the usual 55 heads out on boards. Wished I could have stayed out for longer, but had prior commitments and was unable to.
Wow stank you're not being abrasive, thanks. Don't get me wrong, when Belmar goes off it's great. I have a blast with anything over stomach high. But, when I try to take out my groveler there in anything waist high or below (some waist high days are fun) it just isn't as fun. The rides aren't as long and they don't seem to peel, unlike many of the thigh/knee high grovel sessions I've had in AC/OC this year. Anybody have suggestions for other breaks north of LBI for a shortboard when it's small? Not trying to compromise any of your spots but I just want to ride my grov and have some more fun!
Dude Belmar is pretty much the best spot on the continental east coast of the USA. The waves really pitch there and you can get some good tubes. That's why they always have surf contests in Belmar. It's also home to the world famous Corey P, pro surfer extradinare But I do agree- a lot of the sand in the spots in the area have shifted specially after this last swell... And with the east swell lately really only the lefts are peeling. There are other spots close by- you just gotta drive and find them. Just remember that now that the lifeguards are gone you can surf anywhere. BUT BELMAR is always your best bet... Waves are always bigger and the water is always warmer- due to the laboradors
Swell bump this morning! A mix of ENE / ESE medium period swell. I got out at sunrise as usual, I brought the LB thinking maybe waist high at best but turned out to be waist - chest with some bigger sets mixed in. The first hour to 90 minutes was consistent and non stop fun. Nice glassy, peaky ramps, mostly lefts, and they were reeling down the bar and staying open for really long rides from way outside, connecting all the way to shore if you played your cards right. Then the tide bottomed out and it went into a lull with the occasional set coming in. I hung around for another 90 minutes in hopes that it would turn back on but it never really did, so I grabbed a few more and was looking for the session ending bomb. After a wait it finally came and I took it all the way to shore. I was alone most of the morning but the last hour of it the newbies started making their way out, my que to leave.
Yah. I was surprised too! Thought it was gonna be knee to thigh. Which some waves were. But there were m any waves of size rolling through. I had a spectacular wipeout on one up to my chest, but was still fun. And at long last a wonderful waist high left to end the sesh with. Lots of guys were having a blast. I did just hear someone got a head injury: board hit her in the head. I sure hope she is okay. A nice yellowtail snapper swam by Valhalla and wife were out there too
Funny you mention this. I saw what looked like a yellow fin tuna jump out of the water this morning. He was big boy. When it happened I said out loud to myself, "Ohhhhhh!" (Dice Clay style) lol
For sure, I see them often actually, luckily I still have all my digits though. Almost lost my big toe to something with teeth the other day though, I jumped on my board so fast lol
Today was similar to yesterday, still waist to chest, but much cleaner, and longer walled up lines. Such a great session, haven't had this much fun on the LB in a while. I could have ridden any other board, but it was perfect conditions for it.