Longest you've gone without surfing

For me, the period when I was in grad school and teaching, 2006 to 2009, I was a summertime pro, would get in a few quality days a year but didn't fully commit with wintre gear(through this period, don't get me wrong, springy over full suit wintre sessions when I was a wee little lad). Attempting to be an 'adult', as defined by society. Never f u c k ing happen againe. I'd still peep the cams every day from my classroom, and it killed me having no time.

 

four years in college with some sporadic summer surfing thrown in was the longest by far. I then moved closer to the coast (about 45 minutes door to water), which helped. Last 13 years or so, maybe a month between sessions at the longest. A lot depended on how hard my now ex was ragging me about surfing (she hated that I went) and flat spells. In the last 6 years since moving to within a couple of miles of the beach, I'm only stopped by flat spells, family obligations and my job (which is really flexible). I've lived hours from the coast, and I won't ever do that sh!t again. Props to those of you who make a long ass drive for a little bit of water time.

 

Almost 5 full years while I was landlocked finishing school and working 3 different jobs to survive. Just too poor to make a trip at the time.

 

Yeah man! FTW!
The irony is if they had given me 2 years MINUS a day, it would have been a county sentence and not State time. I'd have been sent to Cape May Correctional instead of BSP (Bayside State). At least I didn't get sent to one of the sh!tholes up north.

 

thats great that you'll get some water time with him, he'll probably be very appreciative, Ranger school is some next-level suck

 

Spent 8 years in Colorado out of college. Snowboarded my ass off, but only surfed on the odd vacation. But mother ocean called me back, and I made up for lost time with 2 years in New Zealand, then up here to the great North East.

 

great topic... started surfing at 11 stopped at 22 because of racing road and track bikes. fast forward ten years I have a son and it all got real. I turned 39 sitting on the beach, my kids watching people surf. My mom tells them ur dad used to to that. Drove off the beach that day and bought a 76 WRV haven't looked back since. Just had to change what i was ridding and my buddy BWynn took care of that, Once U start U can never stop. u will have sexwax dreams....

 

1978 - 2012
That's 34 yrs.

Stating the obvious: I lost so, so many yrs to. ... stuff. Chasing 'success' and lucre and the conventional crapola that means fukk all in the final analysis. I'm not changing the world, and neither will you, so, really, why the fukk devote all these yrs to chasing.....what. Turn it around, and take care of you & your'n. It's all that truly matters.

No different today than tribal days. We just tell ourselves a lot more lil lies to keep believing. Oh, and the marketing is slicker.

Existentialism, the only way to go IMHO.

Conclusion: y'all lost this informal contest to me. It's a win... and it's deep loss.

 

6 Months, had a tracking device on my ankle that transmitted a signal to a "brick" pack that I couldn't get farther than 10' away from or it would alarm. Alarm=bad

 

57 years.

 

10 years...found other interests along with a career change and focused on that...only returned to it the last several years. My son got into surfing and found myself going back into the water with him. Got back into it and realized I needed to shed some serious weight to get back how I surfed in my younger years. Don't surf as well as I was younger, tho lighter now then back then. Body just isn't as limber and sore after every session, regardless how often I surf. Thanks to my son, I never realized how much I missed it...even got back into skating. Probably surf at least twice a week on average...sometimes more, depends on the surf.

 

I probably went a year or a little more, back in the day when I was not yet a frequent surfer, due to living over an hour away from the coast. Probably at some point in my early 20's. Not to mention that I was in abysmal shape at the time.

But between the mid 90's and now, I went about 8 or 9 months back in 2003-2004. Might have been only 6 or 7. I broke my ankle riding my dirtbike and couldn't surf (or work) for almost 5 months. In the last few years though, I've went 3-4 months a time though, due to my busy work schedule between the early fall and early spring months. It's been about a month now, might be another month or two. I don't get many days off and when I do, conditions are not always favorable. I will be in Southern California at the end of the month on business, hoping there's something then.

 

I jinxed myself. It's been over a week for me and i'm starting to feel the depression set in. I could have paddled out once or twice but it wasn't looking to appealing to me and then I went and popped my shoulder out again, but not while surfing, just around the house believe it or not. Friday is looking like a good day to get back in but not sure how my shoulder will feel, i'm thinking good enough to get back to it, but we'll see.

 

48 years and 2 months....okay that was before i actually started. now its generally not more than a couple days unless i get hurt. keep making bigger boards to be able to still go out when its flat.