who here has been surfing this week?

Great morning yesterday, chest with the occasional head high sets, super clean and glassy to about 11am. Didn't expect it, and the best part, uncrowded. There were three of us when I started, surfed by myself for about an hour, then another guy paddled out when I was getting out. F#cking beautiful.

 

Couldn't believe the cams/buoy when I checked in from work. Glad you got some of that. Hope you got me two. Manik, two.

This weekend looking fun, and I could actually get on it now with a whole two days off finally.

 

that swell was making it down into the Delmarva yesterday. Buoys were in the 5' @ 10 sec of east swell with chest to shoulder high waves and cool breezy sunnty conditions. Surfed for about an hour and a half in a shorty after work and despite the 70+ degree water, got chilly. Still it was fun, and third session this week.

 

yes... some chunky little sections on some of those peaks a bit south of us.

Back out this morning at the local on the incoming, wind was still pretty light. Fun trying to dial in a new (to me) 5'8 stretch board. Stoked!

 

choppy...i swear it feels like its never gonna clean up. Been sitting it out last couple days, tho may check it out after work. Carving the boards for exercise.

 

I hit South side IRI Tuesday evening, very fun!!

 

Fun time logging it out at Nantasket this morning. First time in a full suite since June maybe.

 

to dam far away...and not enough time to get up there after work...you guys suck..j/k

 

Onshore for dayz...

 

HA HA, that's one good thing about IRI and swell direction, one side usually works! Hope ya score!

 

Good sized swell coming in, very light offshores. Arrived at break a few minutes after dawn. A little mist/fog, and no one in yet. It was about 1 and a half hours after high tide. Got drilled a couple times on the paddle out, as the rips weren't quite organized. Waves were breaking way outside. Set waves were large, probably HH, maybe OH, but not steep initially, once you caught the wave, maintained and then built up speed, it walled up nice for an zippy/fun inside section. The paddle out became easier as the the rip became organized with less water. Waves also became steeper with less water as the morning progressed, however, it appeared that the swell ratcheted down a little bit. Surfed a left off the peak as the right had a long wall that became an unmakeable section (tried it one time, and was worked by the subsequent waves in the set and the paddle out - so lesson learned). Nice waves were still rolling in, and there was maybe 8 or so peeps scoring on a few peaks, when I exited. Fun sesh, although only was out about an hour and a half, as I had to get to work.

This is a picture I shot with my phone when I first arrived.


The one after I got out .. you can see there a guy charging the peek, but he looks small in the picture.


P.S.: Shout out to PJ! I hope all is well!

 

Carolinas Long Bay- 2.5 hr. continuous paddle, challenging, chunky, 15+ side offshore, drifty. Super fun, high wave count, long rides w/ numerous sections to bounce off of. Always fun to witness your mates drop in overhead peaks and rip turns and sometimes chewing major league turds. Caught inside one time spinning the wheels in the mud for a little while after a long one down the beach. Found traction after a bakers dozen or so DDs- felt like climbing a mountain peak, huffing, puffing & digging but it felt great to overcome. Wick was spent at that point and after 4 more the pot pie in the oven was calling my name. Everything is closed so the party is on the beach today before the big wind hits tomorrow and the power goes out.

 

Would venture to say that garbanzo's ink combined with Cdawg's pics pretty well sum up how we roll on the right coast during this, our season.

Well posted, nicely played buoyz

 

Thanks.. just doing my part to keep fueling the stoke.

 

Awesome...surfed that place or the area, if my guess is right, many of times. Had one of my best sessions in June, think in 1990. Looked very similar to those conditions. Crazy fun and very rememberable. Great post!

 

coop-a-loop, how's TPTSNBN? Is wild side closed by NPS until this stuff passes?

 

Not sure on that acronym, but I think I know what you are referring too...lol...choppy...It was open a couple days ago, tides not bad.

 

Holy cow, that looks fun.

#chargingthepeek

 

The Place That Shall Not Be Named

gracias mang

 

I've got to get up to Cape Cod, damn that looks tasty.

Got out on Wednesday, an unexpected little swell hitting First Beach. Second Beach was flat as flat. But all I caught were little close outs, just couldn't seem to find a line anywhere. It looked rideable from the beach, but it just wasn't...not on a short boart anyway.

Checked it today. Looked like absolute crap when I got there. The Narragansett side looks like a zoo, and I can't be bothered to go hunting when it's waist high.

#maybetomorrow