who here has been surfing this week?

Bring shark repellent effective against Great Whites........there are now recorded/counted over 200 individuals looking for seals and those that dress up like them.......

 

Had to work this morning, thought I might miss the clean swell window, but got it gooood this afternoon. Not big but 2+ hours sesh in waist-chest high clean lefts, with light sprinkles. Water felt really warm for some reason. it was the longer period SE swell from Nicole. Pretty stoked on how many tropical swells have come through this year.

 

I swear i'm on a board... Some leftovers.

 

Virginia Beach ocean front was super blown out yesterday. I ended up checking a beach by my house in Hampton. Buckroe Beach, on the Chesapeake Bay. Had some gusty offshore-side offshore winds and solid 3-4 foot swell on the sets. Plenty of jetties out there, it wasn't hard to find myself a nice left to play on.

This was my first experience surfing in the bay and I was surprised to see several other guys already on it when i got there. Had a lot of fun. Hoping there is still some surf to play with when I get off work today.

 

Went out for couple of hours, waves are shoulder head high (some), and winds howling offshores. Had a few good waves. As I got out a couple of cars with New York plates pulled up with surfers and boards and they gave us the thumb and small finger fist sign as if they were cool. My friends and I gave them the middle finger simultaneously. They pulled out, drove off quickly and went elsewhere........morons....

 

O Barry, this made my morning lol

 

You didnt do that you keyboard *****!

 

I believe the part about the middle finger but not the bit about having friends.

 

Me. I went surfing. Today. This AM. It was wiiindy. It was crowded. It was Columbus Day. I'm going huntin at dusk.

 

super fun in long island yesterday. pitsssss

 

That is so fkn cool. About a year or 2 ago, another Swellie posted a pic of a sweet looking wave and asked the guys to "name that wave". Turned out to be Buckroe. I did a Google Earth on Chesapeake and was surprised at the different beach shapes and the amount of fetch certain areas get there inside the Bay. I'd be all over it if I had a chance, but I gotta imagine that it gets butt a$$ cold inside there.

 

I love surftober! pumping today, managed a 4 hour session, and now I may be in a coma, not sure.

 

A solid 8 hours of water time this weekend. What a blast. Chest to head high on set waves. Ton of fun in S. Jerz. Starting to feel like fall. Getting out of the water was brisk today.

Here's a few fun ones from our sesh

 

FInally scored some these past few days. My fire crew has started burn operations so ive been out dawn till dusk burning ****. Managed to squeeze a couple brief dawn patrols in the past few days, and scored a long session in overhead surf yesterday at the jetty.

Fun but super bumpy. Today I went out and it was at least 12 feet on the sets, shutting down the rip at the jetty and just bombing from super far out. I took my stepup out and scored one wave after taking about 10 on the head, and saw my buddy taking one in as I was getting out to go do the walk-to-the-rip dance. He was totally out of it and I thought he was injured, but as soon as he got to sand he started yelling "shark shark!".

Apparently a big ass fin started coming towards him from the rivermouth on the outside of the jetty and chased him in. Makes sense with the fall salmon runs. I also saw a huge (what i perceieved at the time) whale about ten feet off to my right when I was sitting way outside. Now im not so sure.

Ended the day by scoring a reef break a town over, peeling barreling overhead waves clean as **** with only 2 guys out. One was a shaper and took me to his shaping bay. Pretty heady wood inlade boardes he makes. Finished the sunset session off with a solid session at a regional classic beach break. All in all a pretty busy and interesting day, gotta burn again tomorrow but at least i didn't get chomped today!

 

This supports the theory that there are only fewer shark attacks in OR and WA because there are so many fewer people out in the water, not because there are fewer sharks.

 

Lmao... Miserable bastard

 

Looks fun

 

You'll be pleased to know that one of the locals got "bumped" last week in the corner, then dragged a few feet before it let go. No sign of any seals popping up. So it's unconfirmed but some of the guys are on edge a little bit over here.

 

New England aloha.

 

late Columbus day sesh! not as good as the report predicted but life's always better salty!