who here has been surfing this week?

Took a trip down to Kitty Hawk yesterday. Left work around 3 got to the beach a little after 4 and surfed for about an hour and a half or so. Caught it about an hour or so after low tide. Second bar was breaking on the bigger sets easily head high to 3' overhead. Damn near impossible to be in the right spot when they rolled through but boy was it pretty.

Picked off a few on the inside (still solid chest high), little bit of backwash made the drop interesting but all in all... great day to be out in the water. Looks like today will offer more of the same, If i go again ill be closer to low tide so that second bar might be a little more consistent.

 

I agree. This morning was glassy and i was in the water before sunup to catch as much of the incoming tide as possible before the full-moon high. With 15-16 second periods there is something awesome about seeing long period waves carrying all that water feel the outer bottom and just start visibly slowing down and growing in size as they shoal.

With the long broad shoulder a-frames its hard to be in the right place, and with sets only every 10 minutes or so wave count was low, but the view was amazing.

 

Got a bunch a fun head high+ waves last night from about 5-7pm in a SW wind protected south jerz corner. Sets were lully but lined up and fun. Air was in the 70s, water still mid 60s. 2mm full suite and no boots but I did see several guys with them on.

 

You didn't stay long this morning. You just had to wait a little between sets. Waves were not epic, but I had a really fun day. I didn't think the damn tide stop coming in, really high! Low tide was fun as long as you were on that shoulder, but it also got pretty damn crowded. Was fun watching people get drilled, too!

 

Yesterday (Monday) split sand reconnoiter duties with a Bud at first light, since the latest run of wind, swell and storms have changed things. One spot had large, wide lines w/ close out barrels, and waves breaking in spots far outside previously not known to do so. The other beach had it's share of closeouts, but we postulated that we might be able to "pick of a corner" and get a decent ride. No one was out scoring yet (see pictures below). A lot of onlookers from up the hill. We were the guinea pigs.

The spots that might produce were far out, and the peaks seemed to be shifty, so the paddle out would be a bit of a challenge as the inside breaks were walls of foam that could easily rake you back to shore. Fortunately with a ground swell >12s, it could be timed. Was fortunate enough to make way outside and down the beach with a dry head. I split off from my bud, as he eyed a left to the north, and I headed south to the right frontsider. Big lines were rolling in, and I was a little too far out and they were fast and hard catch. Finally I decided I had to lurk closer to the impact zone and risk that I could get clobbered by a set bomb or be forced to make a late take off.

The peaks were a little squirrelly, but began to recognize the pattern. All of the sudden I was in "Position A" with a set bomb heading right at me. I thought I might have drifted too far inside, but I had to go for it, as it was do or get annihilated. I make a late drop, I get low and back, to maintain balance and handle the speed and as I'm rapidly shooting down the face, my dry head is no more as the chandelier of water breaks over my head. I make a hard bottom turn and get back up top for another drop. I can see ahead a section forming, and get enough speed to cut across it and then get a couple more turns, then making my escape before I would have got caught inside. Nicole sent some juice. I had several more good rides, but the first one was the one that was "worth the price of admission". After a while, a few more people decided to give it a go, but there were no more than 5 or 6 out there, hunting a few different peaks. I did botch one drop on a bomb (caught an edge)... no telling how that one would have played. Got stuck inside, and had to "belly board" to safety. Got back out for one more wave, then headed to work.

It was a challenging sesh, but caught some fun ones. As always, it is good to get wet.

 

You trying to go shred some nar nar dude?

 

whats that

 

had to get a handful of waves this morning, had the surf itch for a couple days. simply devine knee slappers. clean. supposed to get a lil bump today thru tomorrow. nothing fancy to report, but no need for cofffee at work either. i'm up, ready for tomorrow wild thigh high extravaganzo

 

surfed yesterday afternoon...fun, tho on the smaller size.

 

Bro how do you surf but not know what shredding nar nar means.

 

Nice. Wednesday afternoon still some long period swell from Nicole filtering into Delaware as well. The low tide bottomed out around 4:30 and sure as sh1t when the tide started coming in, so did some thigh-waist high sets. Nice shouldery a-frames, a left and right on every wave, mellow surfed out crowd much smaller than earlier in the week, 80 degree low angle sunshine.

Mini-simmons quad felt SO fun on the lefts. I love it when you get a half dozen waves that are all pretty much the same, can focus on one thing - in my case yesterday holding enough speed through a frontside wrap back to the pocket to get back out on the face with enough speed to make another section. This was the smallest (by far) sesh of the Nicole swell, but it might have actually been the best. Good board, mellow stoked lineup, a working lefthander.

 

Nice... bonus day!

I had a meeting after work, so I didn't get down to the beach until very late in the day, and ended up passing. Still some clean-ish waist high sets that looked fun, but after surfing every board in my quiver multiple times, and basically surfing on daily basis for the past few WEEKS (unbelievable run of swell we've had lately), I actually felt ok missing the last hour or two of light.

But guess what... this morning it was blown out crap, and I was wishing I surfed last night!

 

The yearning for more is real bro! I too had to work all day yesterday and with a mid-tank full, I am still wishing I could have gotten on it for an hour or two yesterday...still looked fun!

 

Mitchell, Coop, Zippy, Gfootr, CJST, Z....you buoyz tackling those 25-30 knot WNWesterlies manana...??

 

Here's a pic from the "Bigger" Saturday, again at Frisco. That place can be fun when it's big.

 

Nice, CaptJAQ. looks like that particular one made out for a long ride

 

The timewarp made it long, before I had to go over the back to avoid the whole thing dumping over on the inside bar that was knee to waist deep!

This was my best wave of the day, I'm so lucky that my son's crew had a camera and caught the pic.

 

Amazing session(s) in North Florida today. Wow

 

Expecting waist to chest, got chest to OH.

 

Gotta work but if anything is left, gonna hit it around 4.

Just came in and it was an absolute blast...not super clean or big but just a fun size, waist to an occ chest peak. Was able to wear my ss full and my long sleeve short this week. Water and air felt great all week but looks like they are gonna have to be retired until late spring. Washed them out and looks like full suit weather starting tomorrow. Hope the wind doesn't knock it down by late afternoon...go getsum!