Not disagreeing with you here. I didn't say that to create more debate on the topic. I was just pointing out why I think everybody is on edge right now. That's all that meant.
I hit him up a while ago when I was surfing the spot that has no road. Radio silence. Walked to it with my Mom, waves were wonky crowded **** but it's gorgeous there so it was worth it. There was a beautiful tidal pool too. 'Pretty good'? Some spots by you have been crazy good! Last time I walked from the usual 'lot' to another spot. Holy... f*cking... sh*t. 30 second runners, was blowing my mind. That old timer (Robert?) was out there cheering it on. Saw some incredible waves and caught some incredible waves. A kid dropped in on me & shot his board out. I bailed, and landed on his fins. Brutal bruise and a cut up my crack... through a 4/3. I was gonna post a pic of the injury but no one here wants to see my pale ass. 'Cept maybe Sloflo.