amazing day on Delmarva. Solid clean swell in the head high + range all day. Sunny light offshores. First shot is what we saw the second we popped over the dune this morning, and knew it was on! Surfed Two sessions. Second two shots are from after the afternoon session. Great day.
I was waiting for a post from you. I saw Lee at Malibu's post on FB, and was hoping you were on it. That's pretty much as good as it gets around here! Thanks for taking and sharing these!
Northern Monmouth had nice conditions, nice size, nice water, nice wind... and a sh!tstorm of kooks from all over the tri-state area creating havoc on what would have been one of the best days of the year. We're talkin' multiple drop-ins on a single wave... on 2 out of 3 waves. I had to leave... Tomorrow I'll find a peak to myself off everyone's radar and have a soul-cleansing redemption session. Today was toxic.
It most certainly was not the best day of the year here in Central Jerz... Nothing but close outs. That's a lie, I caught a handful of good ones but it was nothing great imo. I thought this swell was gonna treat us better.
Hit T Street this morning and shot some pics before paddling out. Couple of my boys: Matt Archibald showed up and tore the place up:
Excellent! I went home to get my stuff and bam...bad asthma attack...had allergies bad earlier today, no idea why...bummed out cause I just didn't feel right. Took off tomorrow to surf.
Today was a barrelfest!! If you live here and didn't get it you really need to reevaluate your priorities. Seriously!!!
LI was on fire. Head high and offshore... only got out for an hour, but it was perfect. Hopefully I'll get more time tomorrow
yeah. I agree. light offshores/glassy conditions all day, no need for booties, overhead sets all day, broke right through the morning low and afternoon high tides. in my book a pretty good day. It didn't hurt that my last wave of the day was a head high lefthander that grew down the line and let me drive through a barrel section. there were guys on the beach with cameras. Where's the love?
I know for a fact closer to home was way better than the kook sh!tshow at the Cove. Pulled up and saw it for myself, but as fate would have it... not an option at the time. It's all good, though... priorities are what they are...
Good to see you. I got a few then went north just below the tourist zoo by my house and scored. Tomorrow should be great too. Backs fd up but it was worth it