haha...i agree how it does look like him, but it isnt. I surf with him all the by the way...what a character!
Yeah Mattyb it was a good time. My shoulders are so beat up. It's still firin now but I can barely put a shirt on haha, two 5hr sessions was overkill.I hope your back heals fast bro.
Soooo fun this morning just down the street. Better than where I drove to yesterday, and stoked to have these last 2 days as the first sessions back after being happily sidelined with a new baby. Love getting close with the new kiddo, and now surf withdrawal symptoms of irritability, depression etc. are fully relieved!
Had a small window and picked the wrong location. Looked good earlier than went back on lunch break without checking. The higher tide caused shorebreak closeouts and a bunch of beatings. Wish I had more time yesterday. I would have went to another spot. I'll still take some of the closeout beatings than not getting wet.
Awesome, everybody is scoring! I can't wait to get on it, I overslept the alarm today after staying up late last night, but i'll be getting on it, looks like waves for days!
Fun morning...not near as big as yesterday, which I missed. Not sure if I have the energy for another session.
last two days have been some of the best, didnt put in two 5 hour sessions but a solid 8 hours over last two days. Body is toast. Thought I was in Cali. solid multiple day groundswell/light offshore wind and warm water. God does love America
Yep this was me exactly. I overslept and as a result screwed myself with the high tide. Probs could have gotten it at a better location. You win some and you lose some.
How's this for irony - I get out of the water this morning, its FIRING (better than yesterday IMO - not as big, but better, just glassy and barelling it tits off) but i'm worn out and sore, grab the camera and Bodolus (who i havent seen in months) drops into one and pulls up into it.
+1^^^^. I can't remember 2 better days of surf. Agree today although smaller was better. Caught a real nice surprise off the beaten path today!
Well... I feel better now. Crowds were down considerably, and the surf was still firing. Long, semi-glassy ripable rights with a few barrel sections here and there. Best wave of the day was a kid at the top of the point taking off on a rogue-sized set wave, pulling into a perfect barrel and coming out clean. I had the perfect view paddling back over into the lineup. I was so stoked for that kid... put a big smile on my face.
Got a few hours in this afternoon when the wind went offshore. Surprisingly, there were still some nugs pumping through. Three days of solid surf... three totally different kinds of waves. That's one of the beautiful things about surfing... no day is ever the same.