http://www.wptv.com/news/national/florida-surfer-dies-fulfilling-southern-california-dream Wow! So many layers. Rest in peace and surf on bro!
First of all.it was his sacrifice that kept the Dolphins win streak alive. He literally took one for the team. Second, he carried on, since Jeff Crawfish won the Pipe Masters in 1970 something, the Florida tradition of representing in foreign surf zones. Third, he sounds like a transcendental person who passed through a portal. There's more..... So be safe ya'll and give thanks
Typhoon Lagoon would be worse but yes, I get it. Cloudbreak would be my final barrel if I got to pick.
I think they made the story more glorious than it was. You know his final minutes of legit conciousness were filled with fear, terror and panic. The waves had been big out there during that run. He probably got a crap wave, stuck on the inside and slammed into a piling. Or maybe he didnt even make it out to the lineup before getting slammed. Either way, you know he didnt snag a sick barrel and then find a piling with his face. That just wouldnt happen. He was probably slightly out of his league or whatever and had a scary coincidentally unfortunate mishap. Game over. Feel bad for the guy, but doubtful that he was just tearing it up like he dreamed of.
Who cares whether he was tearing it up or not making the paddle out? Taking care his sick father, while living with him in a van is a heroic act. It doesn't get any more glorious that that.
This guy was a SI lurker and posted once. One of you guys told him to go kill himself and he took it seriously. Hope you're happy. He finally has SI cred but at what cost?
He went out NJShredmachine style. Shotting Honeyton Pier on a 23 fotter. He probably just banged a bunch of Hindu super models on the beach as well.
That's one of the layers I was mentioning. A life very well lived. And way better than dying in a bus wreck. Or random bull****.
Very much concur. Caring for and living with his sick Dad (especially in a van) until his Dad's death was the most noteworthy and noble aspect of this story. It was good that Dana Brown continued to surf. He was killed doing what he loved. It was too bad that it took 4 days for him to pass, but at least he didn't waste away in a nursing home.
