One Piece of Advice...

Never get caught on your knees... It's pretty much universal advice for life.

 

Take off late and deep as often as you can, even on large waves.

 

Always take the first wave of a set

 

And que the Point Break quotes...

 

When the wave breaks here, dont be there
Shred so hard you crack your stick

 

"Don't go out in the water and act like an a$$hole."
-Chavez's Dad 1973

 

DO NOT HESITATE on a take off when its big. Paddle hard and go. Learned that the hard way when younger...been pulled over hesitating and looking like a complete idiot and taking a pounding to boot.

 

Only the ones I went over the falls on at Tres Palmas and Marias when large. But the point was to get rid of fear and move along quickly. This was said to me in 1968 or so, when boards were being made shorter.

And Jerry Lopez says NEVER take the first wave of a set, you will regret it, especially on large days in shallow water. Says so in his book, which is the ONLY surf book I would consent to read. The rest are by morons, for morons......

 

Who is this Jerry Lopez, he doesnt seem to know much about surfboarting

 

"Fear causes hesitation, and hesitation will cause your worst fears to come true."

Some movie I seen once

 

When you think you caught the wave, paddle two more times

 

Ha! Love that movie.

 

Someone long ago told me to "Get farther forward on the board" to catch waves, and that helped a lot when I was learning... Also "everybody wang chung tonight"!