who here has been surfing this week?

Second Beach was actually pretty damn good this evening. Got out from 3 till 4:30 and it was much better than it looked- certainly better than the cams would have led you to believe.

I was staggeringly hung over, though, so I didn't surf nearly as well as I wanted. I skipped the BS and took out the 8' Desert Island which really rode like a champ. I doubt I could have even gotten up on my normal short boart today.

 

just got back in,some fun ones out there in nj.forecast way overshot it,wasnt 8-9ft more like 3-4ft with an occasional 6 footer.it was slow at first,but then the clouds rolled in the wind picked up and some sizable sets came in.still not 9ft but I'm happy

hopefully we get some swell Christmas weekend

 

Blowed out and not great but the temps were irresistable . Ehh

 

Couple hours out today. Surfed 3 different places before we finally found a place worth staying out. It wasn't epic, but had fun and air temps were good.
PS. Finally got to use my Rip Curl Flashbomb gloves, f'n redonkulous! I think my hands were sweating. Better than the Xcel gloves. Imo

 

Did not surf today.

Surfed yesterday all alone not a sole in sight in Monmouth county from 2:30 till dark.
Nice little fun 3 footers, then all of a sudden a big old set rolls in around 315. From then on as tide continued to drop, 6 foot sets every few minutes. Magic conditions. Long walls and NO ONE OUT. LITERALLY.
Glad I made the call on yesterday arvo.

 

Went out with the crew today, 2-3-4-5' short interval fun. Was 83F degrees today. Eerie. Just a really nice pre holiday friendly vibe.

 

Went out this afternoon in Monmouth co. Was pretty fun. Mostly shoulder to head. Bit of a current to deal with, but nice clean waves.

I had time constraints so I only checked two spots. The 2 spots are literally a mile or less from one another, but there was a very big difference in size between the spots. The odd thing was the spot that was smaller was mobbed. Made for an easy decision as to where to paddle out. Not sure why there was such a difference in size as they are usually comparable. Makes me wonder if somewhere else might have picked up the size swellinfo was calling.

 

Damn that doesn't happen often in moco. Lucky dog!

 

Yeah it was weird. I kept scanning the beach in between sets. Granted I was at a secret winter spot.
Head high swell filled in last 2 hrs of the day just as SI forecasted. Props to them for the call.

 

God I got my ass kicked today. Took the 8' out at a hollow reef break and just got planted repeatedly. Way too much board for the conditions. Too bad, too, because it was firing. A bit chunky, but some overhead sets coming through.

 

Chest to head and clean where I was in moco this afternoon... Wind turned hard offshore with drifty peaks
65 degrees when I paddled out. 45 when I got out.

 

Like 3-4' where I was in moco today. And with a thousand kooks out. Maybe I picked the wrong spot. Yeah I picked the wrong spot. Did catch some fun chest high lefts and rights but nothing like 6 or 7 feet. Until next time.

 

pretty fun yesterday. paddled out in the afternoon and it was super chunky and dredging out because of the low tide. had a couple pseudo air drops and once pencil dive but i did get some fun little pits. one wave i did a cutback and literally dropped off a ledge into 6 inches of water and creased the fvck out of my board. towards the middle of the session a huge dark cloud came above us and the wind started to gust hard offshore. the hard wind fixed the wonkiness but made it a bit difficult to drop into waves initially.

definitely not as big as forecasted at my spot, but it was still a really good time.

ps: saw a lot more gopros out in the lineup than usual, forgot those were still a thing

 

I surfed some yesterday. It was OK.

 

Chunky crap at 3 spots I drove around. Several guys out, low tide dredging walls ramping up in 1' of water. Not that big but 4' (I hate "waist", "chest", references as they make me feel like a giant even among my own friends who appear to be midgets). Getting pitched into 1' of water is not very fun for the board or myself, so after awhile I got out and hung out watching with the buddy. No one was catching anything longer than 3.2 seconds and most were getting smoked. Afterwards, putting the board back in I overheard some guys who just got out commenting how it was "super fun", and there were "so many pits, bro". I have not seen much there. I probably need to reexamine my lingo when I describe 4' pounder breaking in shallow with just close outs and strong current in the winter.

 

Went out Saturday in the morning and the afternoon at Folly. It was chest to head hi, chunky. Took out a beater board, 6'6 Realm, that came along with the LB purchase and it handled the waves fairly well @ the Washout. The cold tho and mixed up delivery didn't keep me in the water too long. I came back out at the home front by the pier and caught several with the LB as the water smoothed out some in the afternoon. Sun was out, making it ideally better conditions, and was able to catch a good right hand wave i took to the frontside that stretched out a while. The board handled itself nicely, manueverabilyt and the paddle out were impressive, but it wasn't catching every wave as i'd hope. Not many ppl were having luck out there as it was slow rolling waves. Switched it up to a 7'2 funboart for the last round but that wasn't much help, ended up catching a couple before i called it a day

 

Maybe head high for about an hour+ yesterday, but other than that it was pretty mediocre. Everything changing, all the time... wind, swell, current, crowd...

Checked a couple of spots and ended up finding a fun peak I had to myself. Somebody on here said the "e" word the day before, and put the bad juju out. Definitely NOT epic. Was hoping to pull out the big gun, but rode the shortbort instead.

 

Fog session this morning! I wasn't sure if it was any good or not from the beach because visibility was only about 5-10 feet max. I paddled out optimistically as I knew there was swell in the water and the wind was calm. It turned out to be glassy, waist - chest and even a little bigger on some sets. It was hard to find the right spot at times because I couldn't see very much but I got lucky and lined one up every so often and went for a nice ride. There was a couple where I really loaded up on some turns which helped me scratch the itch.

I was drifting to the North but had not noticed as everything around me was gray. When I got out, I started walking back in the direction I came from the parking lot but then I noticed a house that I hadn't seen on my walk to the water so I knew I must have drifted further than I thought and turned around and walked back in the other direction thinking I must of gone the wrong way. Turns out I was right, I almost got myself lost on the walk back but I found my way lol

 

Went back out this afternoon for a few hours. Size came down a notch but still some up to chest high. Wind was onshore but light. It actually turned into a beatiful day. Glad I went back. Still fun on the fish.

 

My buddy blew his knees out and sold me a 6'6" Pete Dooley shaped Natural Art. A bit wide at 20.25" and a rounded nose made it hard to duck dive. But the round tail and the future set up made it smooth when I finally got past the wash.

Saturday had a north ground swell with a hard southeast wind on it. I found a peak a bit north of the Juno Pier with only a few guys out,but one was Big Wave Dave so I knew I was in the right spot, every time I get it good he is out there busting airs. It was chest to shoulder high and peaky,the rights were fast because the wind pushed you along,the lefts were steep and wonky due to the wind. Peaks would pop up randomly as sets would pop up, and the board threw me off the first wave, a left that just went too steep.

Then we made friends,the board and I. Paddling into the waves was as easy as duck diving the fat nosed pig was hard. Standing up and feeling the drop was butter and the turns were smooth, and the board was fast and made sections and when I leaned into a steep section it shot backup to the top fast and then kind of stalled then dropped back in and gained speed.

I tweaked my big toe walking the board out the shallow shelf to the break because it wont duck dive, but I needed to try it out, even if it was choppy. Life is goode. Tomorrow should be cleaner and more fun.