Worst line-up?

I'm one of those kooks out in moco who can barely surf. Here's why I paddle out:

(1) I'm 29 and feel that if I don't get myself riding a shortboard by my early 30's I'll never get the chance. I'd like surfing to be a lifelong pursuit so the sooner I get on a shortboard the sooner I start ripping. Don't get my wrong - I love long boarding but I'd like to learn all aspects of surfing while I still can.

(2) I started surfing in June. My foamie got me up and riding pretty quickly and I saw huge progression during the fall swell. Now I'm just frothing for more. I'm really not a full blown kook but adjusting to the cold water, 5/4, mittens, a new 7' PU board, and more powerful winterswell/offshore winds (at least they feel more powerful) makes everyday in the winter look like my first. It's just as frustrating for me as it is for you. I do everything I can to stay away from the lineup but it seems game theory takes over every time I'm out. People see me catching waves and paddle out right next to me. I don't mind at all. Everyone's been super cool (I respect the rules of the lineup) with the exception of some older guys who feel they've earned the right to paddle around everyone.

(3) my 5/4 was super cheap. The new vissla suits make getting in the water very affordable.

(4) there ain't **** to do here in the winter.

(5) surf reports get the kooks out. I sit at work all day checking the forecast. I think you see a huge surge in kooks in the water is due to more accurate surf reports. The best days this fall were when the reports showed "3+ ft" with light onshore winds. The SWellInfo app would show a red colored swell prediction and keep everyone out of the water. When the slight onshores didn't show up I'd have solid waves all to myself.

At the end of the day I'm just frothing to surf. In a world where I spend half my time staring at a screen it's nice to float on a piece of foam, bob up and down, and watch the sun set in front of you while the moon comes out behind you. Even if it means you freeze your ass off and get a couple brain freezes on the way out. That's my explanation at least.

 

Ill take the winter "crowd" over having to surf in a dive suit ever again. If youre not complaining about something youre not living in 2016.

Face it, your life sucks because you have to surf with crowds.

 

Glad you're having a good time learning to surf. You don't need to "avoid the lineup". Belmar is not pipeline. Everyone has a right to the ocean, it was simply so much better when it wasn't as crowded obviously. That's all I'm saying. Not trying to intimidate people from enjoying the ocean. I just wish pro surfing didn't exist. Without that and the marketing we wouldn't have these crowds. Also, I agree with your sentiment about the some older dudes. Why are you surfing if you're miserable doing it? I've seen people getting surf rage and **** or missing one wave and just overall miserable out there. Just quit. Seriously, get a new hobby and take up golf. I'm having a blast when I'm in the water. I come here to complain, not out in the ocean.

 

if you're surfing a crowded spot in the winter... that's completely your fault


just sayin

 

^ This.

 

8 years

key factor right there.i don't think facebook and Instagram were around 8 yrs ago.social media destroyed everything.

now u have a bunch of wannabe photogs,that know where exactly to go (bh lol) and take a bunch of pix and tag the location,even film live at a tagged location lol.not a lot of secrets left around here.

theres always going to be more surfers just starting every year.social media isn't really to blame for that,but where those newbs are going to surf,u can blame social media for dat!!!

 

seriously.the spots I surf in the winter u can hold a bloody civil war there and not get caught lol.there is no one for myles.

havnt surfed ocean county in a few years,mainly stick to Monmouth and ny.oc has a lot more surfers than we do lol.theres a lot of surfers in ny as well but theres also a lot of fukin beach there too so.....

 

Sadly if I want to surf someplace uncrowded even on the coldest winter day I'd have to get in my car and drive elsewhere other than my favorite spots a few blocks from my house. Its gotten that bad. I wish people who actually do have to drive to go surf would look elsewhere so I don't have to. Frustrating.