Rincon PR: January 11-18

The day I got hurt at Middles closely resembled a mid-sized day at Backdoor Pipe. Very inviting and had some great rides that morning. Made one slight mistake in the tube and it was nearly curtains. Line was too high in the barrel and the next thing you know I'm going up and over with the lip and strait into the bottom.

 

Fock

 

It's rarely the size of the wave that does it. I broke my nose in OCMD on the knee high end of a stomach high wave. Lost my teeth on a chest high wave standing in waist high water. Was hit in the back of the head with my board on a chest high day. Needed stitches and my skull was chipped where it hit (they showed me the bone). 6-10 foot over a reef would be terrifying to me unless it was a full fat, rolling wave.

 

I've gotten a few days down there like in this video. Its no joke. On the flip side I got Wilderness even bigger than this video and it was an easy dreamy point break. Slight difference in swell direction another day and it is very serious.



[video=youtube_share;HID2SD5nimk]http://youtu.be/HID2SD5nimk[/video]

 

Sweet vid.

 

So how big is this? That would have been too big for me at any point in my surfing life, even 30 years ago I would have passed on that. That looks serious and would require training and a slow progression from bigger and bigger days over many many years consistently to get to the point that you are comfortable dropping in on something that size and breaking that way. I have a hard time believing that the average east coast surfer could go down there, paddle out on a day like that and not get himself killed. The surf here is just not consistent enough to get to that point imho. So how does someone from the east coast work themselves up to the point that they could do that? At my level if I could be airlifted out to the lineup, sit there until one came that I could commit to and all went well I could potentially make get the barrel of my life and make it out. I don't see them doing anything that I can't and don't do on much smaller waves whenever I surf. But I still don't get how you get to the point where that's doable more often than a deadly wipeout. I know a few local guys that could handle that but that number could fit on one hand. The vast majority would end up as fish food.

 

Rincon sounds nice! Enjoy! One day I'll get there!

 

The first two days of their trip is calling for 9-10 ft swell @ 12 secs on the buoy. Sounds heavy to me.

 

i would call that comfortable now if we double it, i would need some make able lefts or rights. But if i was flying high and it wasnt reef i would get slammed a few times.Not giving a fuk is a good thing and a bad thing i guess.

 

i guess it depends on the break 8ft @ 16sec over shallows reef can be edgy but over sand its like...lets break a neck because reef stings like a mfer. you could also look at advanced as more of a diverse mentality in different situations.

 

You'll be fine. Coldwater hold downs are way worse in my book. Marias is soft as cotton when it's barely over head.

 

hoes and drugz # third world

 

hoes and drugz # third world

 

bro swim finz??? who is dis? a sponger? hmmmm fking love the clean x thing where can i get one seriously?

 

Based on prior comments in this thread, I suggest your FIRST look at Marias. Largest problem there will be crowds of surfers; same with Domes. If we are talking 7-10 FACES , then lower end of that is harmless; the higher end begins to require skill and work. If you move South, along the beach, to Dogmans, it can be a bit softer/smaller, as the swell size usually diminishes as you move away, southerly form Domes. No matter how "small", Little Malibu (near Marina) is NOT for beginners. Taking a spill there can be very painful due to shallow water over sea urchin filled coral.
If Marias is in fact breaking at 7-10, going to Wilderness, Crash Boats etc (all near Aguadilla) is counterproductive to your efforts in search of a smaller wave, as you would be moving North into the swell.

So, with all of that in mind, I suggest first, you check Marias. Take a few minutes to WATCH it; quick glances can be deceiving with long periods. If your friend opts NOT to go out, the experienced only should go out. Contrary to many opinions expressed in this thread, Marias can be a very stronger wave than our East Coast--the swell hits the reef with no prior bottom drag as with continental shelfs on East Coast, retaining a lot of its power. If you decide it is too much, go to other side of the point to "Don Antonios Beach", aka Parkng lots, or sandy beach etc. Although facing north, the bottom is sand and DOES HAVE a drag effect on waves, robbing them of some of their power benefiting newbies to the sport.
Isabela area waves, (Jobos, etc) can be very strong, with currents being a major problem as well. Also, petty theft there is problematic. Take ZERO valuables along with you, unless you have a lady friend who will sun bathe on the beach while you guys surf.
I hope you have a nice time. I grew up there (first 18 1/2 years of my life) and will be glad to try and give you answers to specific question you may have. Have fun and rip a few waves for me!!

 

I agree with everything except the part about considering Sandy Beach or Antonio's. Normally I wouldn't say yes but this appears to be a straight North Swell making it a direct hit being on the North Side of the point, plus did you see those onshore winds? He'll need to go South of the point to get those to be off shore. Sandy Beach will be dump city on that shallow sand bar / rock reef.

 

I did not look at the forecast--my points are "generalities". Specific days and conditions rule all decisions. All my points are 'general guidance", nothing more.

 

You're gonna need a bigger leash.
Spaghetti leashes don't work here.
I'm thinking the wind is going to be an issue this week.