Caught in a Rip

It cleaned up at Maria's the other evening but it's so hard to really tell what it looks like as it's breaking so far out. I made it out Around 6 or so to see if I could snag a couple as it looked manageable from shore. Made it into the lineup and there were easily some 12+ft faces on the sets and a lot of power behind them. It's really easy to find yourself in a bad spot or situation down there especially when you have a few days of overhead fun waves to pump the ego. I find the paddle outs relatively easier out there if you're willing to go the distance compared to the beach breaks here and also that 6-10' is usually bigger than 6-10' once you make it out there. I have nothing to prove, I enjoyed some of the more protected spots and said f--k it to that area with this run of swell.

 

Sounds familiar. One time I paddled out at Maria's after looking at it from shore for a good 20 minutes before deciding to paddle out. It looked chest to head high and playful. I got out there and at first it seemed like it was about head to slightly over head, then all of a sudden the freight trains started coming, 10-12' and reeling for days. It was so beautiful that I wanted to be out there, nervous a bit, but I managed to snag a couple good ones and stay out of trouble. I did get pounded a couple times on the paddle back out and was getting pushed further South. I was getting gassed after a while and decided to ride one in and call it after about 90 minutes - 2 hrs. Such a great morning, but it pushed my limits for sure.

 

I checked a spot a couple of days ago in the area, sized up the surface of the water in a few places up and down the coast, watched a couple of pelicans drop into the water and move this way or that way... said to myself, "Another day, son. It is not a good day to die." When a pelican struggles to paddle against the current... enough said. Not to mention the water has been polluted like crazy this past week from all the rain, tidal surge and wind. Not much rain the past 36 hrs and winds are no longer off the charts, so it should be settled down. How about a cafecito?

 

I always read your name as Rodandlube and I just know

 

LOL. Okay. I surfed all these areas in the pre-leash days... respect for them, but also had a lot of fun in them. More respectful these days. Amazing in the leash culture days that so much is taken for granted. And, yes, I had a couple of 45-minute swim days at Maria's back then, we all did. We also learned how to bodysurf competently enough!! And Pistons was known to have lots of nasty santeria vibe.

 

They were THAT small???
Ever notice the locals are not drowning there, only american tourist surfers???

 

Wow that's pretty tiny. Can't believe the current could've been that gnarly

 

A driving wind alone can spur up a nasty current there. But big surf can really get it moving.

 

heavy storey

those surviving the cut vids were weak lol.u have to watch the buds training on navy seals when they do drownproofing.first ur hands are tied behind ur back,legs tied,blindfolded,and u bob up and down in a 12ft pool and everytime u come up the instructor is splashing ur face with water.another good one is when they are tied up and have to swim like 500 yards with no propulsion ,u have to just move like a dolphin

 

that was exactly the reason

o barry

 

Make sure "you swim a breast to the beach".

 

The military has a grand sense of humor. 'its necessary, indeed!

 

http://www.surfingmagazine.com/originals/what-can-a-surfer-do-if-they-see-someone-drowning/

 

Good article.

Reportedly somebody went missing in Puntas today but I haven't heard a confirmation of that. Strong SW winds have created weird conditions.

 

If only the piggy would go into the ocean, it might be the missing link itself.
BAN THE BEAVER