Barbarian Days

Not bad, my man. Not spending much time on here lately. I'll lurk every once in a while to see if this place is still a political forum, then go away again.

 

Read it a little over a year ago. I thought it was pretty good, but im no expert on literature. Some of his descriptions brought back fond memories for me. Never surfed on acid but it sounded nuts!

 

You guys ever read erotic pulp novels? Picked up a few in Amsterdam. Under 100 pages, big print, line drawings of intercourse. Read a good one about incest.

 

You pervert. You must be from Maine. Don't you all have anything better to do??
I think, then, I will move up!!

 

I thought it was a good read. He described the nuance of surfing better than anyone I thought. When he was a kid and got the surfing bug it reminded me so much of myself, all I wanted to do was surf. I quit all other sports and activities so I could surf as much as possible -> http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/06/01/off-diamond-head-finnegan

 

I read it about a year and a half ago and loved it. Possibly my favorite of the surf-related books I've read, I think because I can relate to the parts about an ongoing life relationship with surfing, whereas I can't typically relate to the actual waves or proficiency levels discussed in most surfing books.

I particularly like the Ocean Beach part, though I'm not sure why. I know now that basically that whole third of the book is available online for free in its original article form, but I was unaware of it before reading the book. Gave a copy to my brother in law who lives in SF and surfs OB (though he just really started surfing regularly about a year and a half ago so he's not necessarily paddling out there on the kind of days the book focuses on) but I don't think he ever read it. Oh well.

 

That's one of the major things wrong with the popular culture of surf media in general... I think. About .1% of the surfing population... probably less... can actually relate to surfing the kinds of waves you see in mags and vids, AND at the level you see them being ridden by pros. It's a fantasy... and aesthetically pleasing one... (no homo)... but a fantasy just the same.

 

100%.
I surfed Teaupoo a few years ago and it was about chest to head high. It was small (by their standards, but great by ours) and super fun. It was super easy and playful, but shallow.
The swell filled in overnight and I went out the next day (on a boat, not to surf). It was fu*king insane and it wasn't even that big by chopes standards. Koa and Alex Smith were there and made it look so easy.
Until you really looked and watched them take off, vertical under the ledge. Those dudes are on such a different level it's unreal..

I can't imagine what it was like on that code red swell. Just being in the channel must have been terrifying.

 

Hey, at least you can say you surfed Chopes lol

 

I'm def not "from here". Place is a bit weird for me actually. I miss Vermont. I wish souther New England collapsed into the water and Vermont got waves. It would be paradise on earth.

 

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People from "away"...gotta admire their quirkiness though.

 

Hey Barry, maybe you can help me to recall a piece of classic literature. I could have sworn it was called the Tudor's Bride, yet I can fetch nothing like it in queried results. I do recall the book's author was a fake pen name, out of necessity, and I believe that it was written many centuries ago in time. I had once picked it up in paperback, at an airport while traveling, simply because I thought the cover was nice, and it appeared to be interesting. I recall reading the beginning of it during an extended layover, at whatever airport it happened to be, and it was extremely well written. I continued to read it after arriving home, and then I became quite shocked (floored, actually). I then became utterly embarrassed over the fact that anyone and everyone having passed me must have surely known what I had been sitting there reading, so nonchalantly, while at the airport, completely clueless of what I had gotten myself into...whoa. If memory correctly serves me, it was one of the first erotica books ever penned, and quite unbelievably graphic, while highly accurate for that period, I imagine.

 

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It was nice to see the bookstores so crowded during the holidays. People may not read books, but they sure send them as gifts. Didn't see any surfers I knew in there. I have joked with my wife, if I want to go somewhere and not see any of my dumbass surfer buds, I go to a library or a bookstore. Happy New Year WBF! Glad you're on the site to lend some IQ.

 

+1 WBF is a G.

 

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So you then know they are morons??? I have been saying that since you "know" me!!!

 

Vermont is definitely the gayest state ever. I mean...Bernie??? Puleez.....

 

Okay, sisurfdog, you sold me on Kings if Cool.

Coincidentally I read Don Winslows book Power of the Dog. It's a gritty realistic novel about the drug cartel. Americans might not do drugs again after reading it. It shows how Americans purchasing drugs contribute to torture and wholesale murder in Mexico.

Nice to see you posting WBF. It really ups the fun factor here with you around....The negative and alienating political threads might fade if we keep away from them. ... maybe Peajay was clairvoyant on that.