Surfline has some footage posted already, and will probably be adding more as the pics / vids roll in. Those who have more footage to add, post it up! I'm stoked for you guys! http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/m...s-in-its-wake-solid-surf-winter-weath_146006/
I'm so bummed I couldn't et down to buxton yesterday... I had promised to help a friend in kdh and didn't get out of it until 6pm... maybe I earned some karma for later but still... it's like a knife in the stomach knowing you proobaly missed one of the best days of the year....
Surfline Camera Rewind from LBI, New Jersey... [video=youtube;rrAIVjDtuNs]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrAIVjDtuNs[/video]
oh yea, nothing clean like that down here when it came across. Whole lotta surfers on that break, that must be a real b*tch to sort out who's going and not going. i try to avoid those crowds at all times. We had a lotta mix up chop, and i got actually had long hold-down, came up gasping for breath. prob doesn't help that i got stuper hi before paddling out, but when that happened after catching a couple good ones i was thinking of calling it a day. didn't of course, THC mind frame at work
Swell of the year for sure. Almost died with a friend on the paddle out yesterday as we took a slab on the head right next to each other. got one barrel I'll never forget even though it clamped on me. Got one good one this morning too but didn't make it out of it and actually put a ding in my lib tech with my shin. So sad. Also got my leashe briefly tied around my neck while I was held under. Glad I know how to stay calm in these situations now. hopefully there's still something later
That first drop at 39 seconds in was legit. They even split the peak! Really though, that is not super crowded at all UnfurleD. Do you often surf with less people? Where may that be? Shifty beach breaks offer many take off zones/peaks and often even in a "crowd" there is always a different "right"spot to be.
least u didnt take a night bus to chicama ten hours only to wake up and have it rerouted back to lima nine hours in due to road flooding.
kid from OCMD - simon hetrick - scoring OBX this week. This guy is a class act in the lineup as well as a really good surfer. http://www.surfline.com/video/webis...-on-the-outer-banks-with-simon-hetrick_146111
This is funny, many years ago I was checking the surf at Assateague and Simon was there with his mom and dad looking. It was big, like as big as Assateague gets and still be good. I commented that I wouldn't let my kid out in that (my son is simons age) they just smiled as Simon was jumping around excited, he couldn't have been more than 11 or 12. I went out and had a great session, never saw if Simon did but I'm guessing yes. It was lined up south swell just perfect, maybe the best I have ever seen there.
